Day Nine

Day Nine – April 14

Good Morning New Orleans; we love you New Orleans
It’s such a lovely day, to love New Orleans,
when people come they never leave
because we’re swinging that way. – Hello New Orleans – Robert
Earl Keen

Return to Iggy’s

Down to the French Market at 10:30 for a banana crepe and coffee. More heavy rain last night and more expected today  Kate had had an issue withe her ATM card. Now ya’ll know who I work for and as much as it pains me I have to say what has occurred with her banking is really poor and when I get back to my work someone is going to feel my wrath.

We sort of lounged around at home for most of the arvo. I bit he bullet and phoned my place of work and finally got some satisfaction re Kate’s bank account. Still gunna lodge an official complaint when I get back and hopefully I can get the wheels in motion to ensure that the service in this particular area of banking is improved for the future.

Wendy and I have decided to walk around to our neighbourhood bar (Iggy’s) at 4ish. We had such good times with the Iggy’s crew last year and hopefully we will see some familiar faces. We were in luck as Big Dave and Ed were sitting at the bar and Judy was behind the jump. It was great catching up with our friends and sharing some stories and drinking more beer than originally intended. We got introduced to another local Chris and he joined us for drinks. Ed has invited us do something very special this coming Saturday. I am going to keep you in suspense. Enough to say that this is a real unique opportunity to be a local for a day and it is not a privilege that often gets afforded to out of towners. Stay tuned!

We then headed down to the casino to win our fortune (that didn’t happen) but we had a lot of fun playing the 60’S Batman themed slot machine. This slot machine is enormous, maybe 3 times the size of a normal slot. It sure sucks you in but what the heck.

Day Eight

Day Eight – April 13

While you stroll in New Orleans
You ought to go see the Mardi Gras
If you go to New Orleans
You ought to go see the Mardi Gras
When you see the Mardi Gras
Somebody’ll tell you what’s Carnival for – Go to the Mardi Gras – Proffesor Longhair

Wedding Anniversary

Well we sure had some heavy thunderstorms last night, or so they tell me as I heard nothing. Wendy said one thunderbolt sounded like a bowling ball hitting and the then rolling down the roof.
Just read that last week’s French Quarter Fest attracted a record crowd over the 4 days – 760,000 people. Also which is disappointing for us is that the free music at Lafayette Park has been cancelled tonight due to the weather.
I made a reservation for lunch at Muriel’s Restaurant for 12:30 to celebrate our anniversary. Muriel’s is an upmarket establishment just across from Jackson Square. We arrived right on time and got a nice table near a window. Lots to look at as the decor is first class. I ordered a Bloody Mary and as I have not had anything to eat to date I should get a little buzz. I had budgeted for a fairly hefty bill but was real surprised at how relatively cheap the lunch menu was. Wendy and I went for the lunch special of soup and a main. The soup was a roasted sweet potato bisque which was sensational. I also (as did Kate) have the wood grilled pork chop swimming in red beans with popcorn rice. Kate did not have the red beans but instead had a side of roast potato. Wendy went for the blackened catfish. The meal was excellent. Kate is drinking coke and has already had a free refill (she finished up with 3 cokes all up)
I had made our reservation from back home and had the option of noting if it was for a special occasion. Just as we were finishing our main course the head honcho came over to our table with a gift of a Muriel’s own label hot sauce and a ribbon and card. Real nice gesture. We are all very full but still went ahead and ordered sweets. Pecan pie and caramel sauce for me and vanilla bean sorbet to share for the girls. All in all a fine dining experience for a remarkably small outlay given the class of the restaurant. Before we left I took the girls upstairs to have a look at the decadent séance room. On the way we walked past a table that is set permanently for the resident ghost!
Back home and it was time for me to go down to Sud Dem Duds and do the washing.
Late afternoon was spent sitting out with Mickey and William just shooting the breeze.
I read on the WWOZ web site that a favourite band of mine the Deslondes were at the Cafe Istanbul on St Claude starting at 8. We left around 7:15 as it is a good 20 minute walk to the venue. We got there just as the doors opened. Real cool room. Seats and a couches plus a bar to the side. There is a band setup right of stage. Can’t figure out why there is a couch and desk and chair set up middle of the stage plus a lectern to the left. The band started playing the Beatle’s Norwegian Wood and followed up with a couple of other tunes. Then I guy came out dressed in a suit and tie and did a bit of a comedy monologue. There was also another guy at the lectern adding comments. We finally figured out we were at the taping of the T.V. show ‘Spotlight New Orleans hosted by John Calhoun’ and the night was going to run like a late night Letterman show. It was a real hoot. The sponsors adds were all acted out by comedians. There was a guest interview with an incredible lady Deon Haywood who helps out the marginalised women of New Orleans. A painting was auctioned to raise funds. Then a great young black comedian by the name of Kamari Stevens had everyone laughing. To round out the night the Deslondes performed two songs. It was not what I envisaged as I thought we were going to a Deslondes show but it turned out to be, as my good friend Mick Newington often says ‘one out of the box’ meaning a great unexpected night out.
It is not a good idea to walk around this area at night so Kate used her Uber app. While we were waiting the comedian Kamari Stevens came over and unlocked his push bike for his ride home to the Ninth Ward. He was cool and had a chat with us. We got picked up in one of those huge American utes you see on T.V. Our driver was Raymond and he was very funny. Said he did Uber work after his full time day job to get away from his wife’s Honey Do’s. I looked a little incredulous and he filled us in by saying ‘you know, honey do the dishes, honey put out the garbage’ and he rattled off a few more honey do’s
We were back in our apartment just after 10 and feeling a little hungry. I took a quick trip to Verti Mart and got a take-out lasagne, red beans, corn and fries.

Day Seven

Day 7 April 12

Good Morning New Orleans; we love you New Orleans
It’s such a lovely day, to love New Orleans,
when people come they never leave
because we’re swinging that way. – Good Morning New Orleans – Kermitt Ruffins

Camellia Grill

Kate has stained her jeans with fake tan and we need to try a drycleaners/laundry to see if they are able to be de-stained. A couple of blocks down from us is a dry cleaners and the girls went into to see what could be done. I hung out the front. They seemed to take ages and when they did come our the told me they had been helped out by a little old, very friendly lady. She must be in her 80’s but she was ever so helpful. The laundry will call us when they have (hopefully removed) the stains.
We got to the Camellia Grill for the first meal of the day. Our waitress was very sassy and gave you a mischievous look when you asked a question. I went for the Mexican omelette with hash browns and a root beer.
The girls continued on to the River walk Mall to do some shopping and I went off to try and buy a mobile hot-spot device. We do have wireless at the apartment but it is not a strong signal and it also drops out a lot. Found a little phone store and was able to get a T- Mobile device with 7 G’s of data which hopefully will see us through the next 3 weeks.
I got back to the apartment just as my landlord William was taking his two dogs for a walk. William invited me for a beer and we headed down to a local bar. Met some people from Ohio and they were pretty chatty. Had a couple with William and then headed back to the apartment to catch up on the blog
Our friend Pat is coming to the apartment around 5:45 to drop off an inflatable mattress for Kate which is real nice of her. Last year Kate slept on the pull-out couch but it is not real comfortable. Pat arrived right on time and not only does she have the mattress but she has also brought over some linen as well.
Pat then drove us to a real nice Italian/Seafood restaurant by the name of Mandina’s. Sebastian Mandino emigrated from Palermo, Italy in 1898 and opened a grocery store on this very same spot (3800 Canal St.) For a Tuesday night the restaurant is pretty full with what looks like more locals that tourists. I had the fried oyster salad. Wendy has a BBQ shrimp Po Boy and Kate had the spaghetti and meat balls. Kate had no hope of eating ll the food that was delivered. Only two meat balls but the are the size of a large orange. She ate for half an hour and still had one and a half meatballs left. Looks kike another doggy bag.
It was great catching up with Pat and all the local news. We will met up again this time with her partner Bob Gentilly Jnr at Johnny White’s bar on Friday night.

Day Six

Day Six – April 11

Moving Day

Do you know what it means to miss New Orleans
And miss it each night and day
I know I’m not wrong this feeling’s gettin’ stronger
The longer, I stay away
Miss them moss covered vines the tall sugar pines
Where mockin’ birds used to sing
And I’d like to see that lazy Mississippi hurryin’ into spring – Do You Know What It Means to Miss New Orleans – Satchmo

Up and at ‘em at 9 A.M.

We met the new tenants that came in last night. Alex and his mother from Tampa. They are driving to California where Alex has a new job. His mum is keeping him company on the drive and she will fly back. The mother is originally from Columbia and although she has lived in Tampa for over 30 years she still has a strong accent. Alex told us that he has a mate that lives in Melbourne and he will be travelling to Australia in the near future.
We walked around to 1123 Bourbon St just after 11 A.M. to check in to our accommodation for the next 3 weeks. The apartment is not yet ready but we were able to dump our bags and head off for a late breakfast. We called into the Belle Diner (just across from the French Market) and for me it was waffles with strawberries/blackberries and pecans and a bottomless coffee.

The girls want to buy some supplies or as we say here in New Orleans we are ‘making groceries’ and the best place to do that is Rousses on Royal. While the girls were ‘making groceries’ I went into a high end hat shop to browse, one of the staff called out to me ‘I’ll have to watch you as you are wearing an Iggy’s T-shirt. Turns out he knows the owners of our favourite neighbourhood bar, Big Dave and Little Dave.

We settled into our apartment at 1P.M. and it finally felt like being home.

We caught up with Alex and his mum at the recently opened BB King diner. We are going to have an early dinner. Kate purchased tickets for us back home for the last NBA home game of the New Orleans Pelicans v’s the Chicago Bulls. Kate and I shared the half chicken and ribs, baked beans and cheesy mac. Good soul food. The game is due to start at 7 P.M.  over at the Smoothie Centre which is right next to the Superdome. To walk it would be just over half an hour but we have decided to get an Uber. Kate uses Uber all the time back home but I have yet to be convinced. We had time to have a beer at Jean Laffite’s on Bourbon and I was able to fill in our new friends about the history of the bar.
Kate used her Uber app to call in and the car arrived within a few minutes.

We got to the stadium with 10 minutes to spare. As usual there are security lines to go through. I had my shoulder bag. When I got to the front for checking they measured my bag and told me that it was over 14 inches long and that I could not go in with it. We told them where we had travelled from and where we had purchased the tickets all to no avail. They were even refusing entry to ladies whose handbags were over the limit. Security said if we wanted to complain to talk to the Pelicans Management. I lost my cool a bit as this was ridiculous. Anyway another security person said I could try and check my bag at the nearby Hyatt. We went over there and how ironic when I asked the first assistant I came across that she was from Perth and had been living in New Orleans for a year.

Finally got our seats at the game with 5 minutes left of the first quarter. The stadium is far from full with it  being the last home game of the season  and with the Pelicans out of the play-offs. It was still an enjoyable night with all the crowd participation and the on court entertainment. In fact Amanda Shaw was the half time performer which was cool. The Pelicans were leading at half-time 62 – 53 but got over run in the last quarter to go down 116 – 121

We walked a block from the stadium as Kate kept checking her Uber app to see what the surcharges were. Kate advised that now was a good time to call in a Uber. You can see how far the car is and who the driver is as well as knowing what the charge will be. The driver a young lady was very friendly and gave us some local discount cards for places around the quarter. I am know convinced that the service from Uber is far superior to our crap cabs back home. The cars are clean. The drivers know where they are going and they are not wearing the same shirt that they have for the last five days. Maybe Uber can get the cab companies to lift their standard of service which can’t be a bad thing.

.

Day Five

Day Five – April 10

Last Day of French Quarter Fest

I’m a country boy down in New Orleans
I’m a country boy down in New Orleans
Can’t find nowhere to get no greasy greens

Creole girl, turn your damper down
Creole girl, turn your damper down
The pots is boiling, spilling on the ground – (I’m a) Country Boy Down In New Orleans- Snooks Eaglin

I am up early (that is for N.O. time) at 10 AM. Feeling good and rested and fired up for the last day of the French Quarter Fest. It is another fine day but a little bit more breezy. Devin is off sailing this morning on Lake Pontchatrain. He told us that he couldn’t get the engine started yesterday so today he is going to just try and use sail power to get away from his mooring. We could have went along with him if we had wanted.
We headed a short distance to Ruby’s Slipper for breakfast. There are three of these fine diners in New Orleans and they are very popular. So popular this morning that there is a line waiting to get in. Change of plan and we steered our way to Frenchman Street. Now that I am semi-local I know that there is a nice little cafe called Cafe Rosa Nicaud that serves an excellent breakfast. We got a seat without any worries and I ordered breakfast (scrambled eggs, cheddar, pico de gallo and sour cream in a flour tortilla). Great food as can be observed by the number of locals eating. Pretty easey to spot those damn tourists!
A short distance to walk to one of two stages at the Old Mint. We are going to see the Creole String Beans which I make sure I see each time I am in town. Good old swamp pop/rock. The stage is set in a nice little grassed area and is crowded but not uncomfortably so. I gave an Aussie souvenir pin to the bass player Rob and he was most grateful.
First Abita at 1:05 and I tried out the IPA – see you beer snobs back home I am trying to broaden my horizons. The couple sitting next to me introduced themselves. They are locals and they welcomed us to New Orleans. The lady is a Realtor (Real Estate Agent) and when she heard that I dream of living here maybe six months of the year she gave me her business card and said she could find me a nice apartment in the Warehouse district. Hmm….
We got down the Abita (main) Stage for the Raw Oyster Cult. Saw Dave (one of the stage crew) who I have promised a tube of vegemite. He too was rapt when I gave him a souvenir pin. He was so pleased with this small act of kindness that he has given us musician passes for front of stage. I told him we didn’t want to impose but he said ‘ya’ll ain’t imposing and you are welcome back stage anytime ya’ll want), How nice. Also gave a pin to the main stage supervisor and MC. He also knew me from past years and was very welcoming.
Next performer up is the legendary Zydeco man Buckwheat Zydeco. I am really looking forward to this set. In my first blog a wrote about a movie I watched on the plane and Buckwheat feature heavily in it.
Buckwheat looks a little sore and slow when he came on stage. He explained that he has broken ribs and had collapsed lungs two weeks ago. His Doctor had warned him not to perform at the festival. ‘Hell no’ was his reply. I ain’t missing the show for nothin’. You can see he is in pain but that did not stop him from ripping the place apart. When he needed a rest from standing and playing his piano accordion he just took himself over to the Hammond and cut loose there. A couple of luxury cruise ships sailed past and they were a sight to behold as they navigated the bend in the Mississippi. It was a terrific set from Buckwheat and his awesome band and I am real glad that I have finally got to see him play.
We then headed to the House of Blues Voodoo Lounge to catch the end of Kent Burnside’s set. As could be expected of anyone with the name Burnside he knows how to play North Mississippi Hills style blues.
Next on the bill is Kent’s cousin Cedric Burnside (Project) This small Lounge is now chockers but we haver a good viewing position. Cedric started with 3 acoustic numbers then went back to his drums and introduced his guitarist. Right from the first note the blues and boogies had the crowd in a dancing frenzy. Real good set of music ably assisted by the Founders IPA I have been drinking.
We called into Cafe Maspero on our way home for a bite to eat. I went for the hot sausage sandwich Wendy had the roast beef sandwich and Kate wasn’t hungry after devouring her cheesy mac at the House of Blues.
We continued on down Decatur heading for home. Sometimes I tend to portray New Orleans in an overly rosy way. I know that it has its bad side and tonight unfortunately we witnessed a real bad thing. As we got close to a cross street where there appeared to be a fight in play. Looked like a couple of rough looking dudes. One of the guys was already on his knees (sitting up) having already been knocked down. Then all of a sudden the second party to the fight took a running start and full on kicked this poor guy right under the jaw. You know when you are at the football and one of the players gets on to a mighty torpedo and you hear that kicking sound. Well that is what it sounded like. The guy was immediately knocked cold onto his back and concerned passers by rushed to his aid. I really thought that he may have been killed instantly. The cowardly kicker was a big scary looking guy and in the hyped up state he was in people stayed away from him. I know the girls felt sickened as did I.
At the next block there was a guy dressed in a beaded g-string dancing to his boom box. When I mean dancing he was skipping 5 metres in each direction then bending over to bare his buttocks in a most provocative (if you are that way inclined) manner. Kate said after we had passed him ‘that was the most insane five minutes I have ever see’. It did put a damper on a most enjoyable day. Yes you need to be careful but in the six times I have been over here that is the first time I have witnessed violence like that and I am 100% sure that the two involved in the fight were not locals at all.
Anyway we got back home safely and are looking forwarded to moving house tomorrow although our stay here has been very nice.

Day Four April 10

When I’m feeling the weight of the water
Lord I know that there’s blues in the Quarter
If I could hold back my tears and make it there, I’d be alright
But I might need you, New Orleans, every night – When a Cajun Man Gets the Blues – Tab

Didn’t get up until 11. Getting later every day. Had a rough night and it took 5 anti-inflamatories to help get me off to sleep.
We got to one of my favourite breakfast hang-outs at noon. Envies has the best French Toast ever. Comes with a side of fresh fruit which included a strawberry the size of a mandarin.

We walked down to Canal St and the town is buzzing. Even more people around today (Saturday). People are spilling out on to the streets form cafes and restaurants after eating a late breakfast. Although the time of day is of no significance here. Street musicians are on every corner and all are worth stopping and listening to. Big band of  young people performing old time mountain music,  another band playing techno middle eastern, solo blues artists and a trio of traditional jazz musicians playing from a second level balcony.

Wendy and Kate are going to continue on to see if she can get one of her photos printed.

I headed to the GE stage to sit and catch up with the blog and have a listen to Gal Holiday and the Honky Tonk Review. No prizes for guessing the style of music, pardoners.
Wendy had no luck with getting her photo printed but she is back in time to get to talk to Big Chief Bo Dollis Jnr who will be performing shortly. Wendy has one of her photos of Bo and he gladly signed it and asked for Wendy to send him a copy. He also asked a friend of his to take a photo of him and Wendy with Bo holding the photo. Charmaine Neville is also around and she also gladly signed her photo and asked for a copy also. Pretty cool that both Bo and Charmaine want copies of Wendy’s photos. Wendy told Charmaine that she has a great photo  of her dad the legendary Charles Neville. Charmaine told Wendy that Charles is in hospital and asked her to pray for him.

As mentioned yesterday we have been invited by Big Sam Williams manager (Stephen Klein) to go back stage for his set at the Abita Stage. True to his word we got our wristbands (Saturday Musicians Abita) and we are set up away from the big crowd. One of the stage crew (Dave) came over to say hello as he recognised me from years past. He welcomed me and then introduced me to one of the official photographers. Dave then asked his photographer friend to take our picture (maybe I am getting famous!) I promised Dave that I would drop in a tube of vegemite for him tomorrow.
It is 7:15 and Big Sam is kicking butt but surprise, surprise it is getting a little cold. Once the sun drops and you are near the river then there is a noticeable drop in temperature. The band performed a wicked version of ‘Purple Haze’. Yes sir, ‘Excuse Me While I Kiss The Sky.’

So ends another great day. A beer free day as well! Time for an early night

Day Three – April 8th

Day Three – April 8th

French Quarter Fest

Now baby please don’t go, now baby please don’t go
Baby please don’t go back to New Orleans, and get your cold ice cream
I believe there’s a man done gone, I believe there’s a man done gone
I believe there’s a man done gone to the county farm, with a long chain on – Big Joe Williams

Pretty slow getting going today. It looks like another fine day weather wise. Very different to last year where two days of the festival were all but washed out.

We got to the French Market at noon having completely missed breakfast. Kate has a chocolate and strawberry crepe. The market is packed today with tourists in town for the music festival. We grabbed a table and then I went and got a crab cake and poached egg for breakfast/lunch (I refuse to write brunch as I believe that to be a wanky word)
We strolled along the river heading to the festival site. Wendy and Kate stopped at the Abita Stage to catch Irma Thomas and hopefully get Irma to sign one of Wendy’s photos. I kept on going to the GE Stage. Caught up with Stew and Carol and their son Darren. Went and found a shady spot to sit and listen to the Irene Sage band. First Abita at 1:15 which is well past the yard-arm. Wendy and Kate are back and are pretty pleased that Irma did indeed sign the photo, ‘to Wendy’ if you don’t mind.

Chris Mule & the Perpetrators are cranking out some very tasty Southern Rock. Stew waved me over to meet Irene Sage and she gave me a couple of free c.d’s. What do you reckon Mr. Smith? It has taken me into the second day to score a freebie. Stew also has moved us into the sponsors area front of stage to sit at a table for the remainder of Chris’s excellent set. I went and got another Abita and this time I tried a different style the Purple Haze. Raspberry infusion no less. Not sure if I would like it but after one sip it was declared a winner. I gave a salute to the craft beer Kings and Queens back home. Rob & Ange, Terry. Phoebe and Ted Bear and Joanne.
Chris threw in a tribute to Merle Haggard who has just past away (on his birth date). We all sang along to ‘An Okie from Muskogee’
I have just realised who Chris is. He is one of the front men for the Honey Island Swamp Band, no wonder the Perpetrators are so damn good.

Robin Barnes is up next and Robin is a lady. New style R ‘n’ B and Wendy is impressed enough to go and buy a C.D. We had a taste of a snack Stew was munching on. Sourdough Nibblies. A taste sensation and perfect with a cold beer
I moved over to the River Walk stage while the girls went back to the apartment to drop off Wendy’s cameras. Tonight we are heading to the House of Blues for the Allen Toussaint tribute show and the venue has a strict no camera policy and especially so for professional cameras. Hey, Terry just spotted a drink for you – a Bacon Bloody Mary!
I was a little hungry again and went  and got some ‘Dirty Mac & Cheese’ oh so good – crawfish, turkey tasso (ham), gouda and garlic with spices.

I then went over to the Voodoo Lounge at the House of Blues The girls will meet me out front at 7:45 and I still have 45 minutes to kill. Got to hear a set of the Cajun band ‘Michot’s Melody Makers’ while drinking a Redd’s Apple Ale. As they say an ‘apple a day, keeps the doctor away’.

I met the girls out front at 7:45 as planned. There is already a long line snaking down the side-walk for door opening time. We found out shortly after that the line we were in was for an electronic band, no wonder everyone looked so young.
We got a good soot to stand and we grabbed a couple of bar snacks. Mine was sensational. Cheesy garlic fries with pulled pork and jalapenos all glued together.

The show started around 9:15 and I am so glad that I had booked tickets online two weeks ago. Ninety minutes of classic Toussaint songs with a galaxy of stars. The Allen Toussaint band with Leo Nocentelli (the Meters), ‘Big’ Sam Williams, James Andrews, Walter ‘Wolfman’ Washington, Robin Barnes (who we saw today) and Davell Crawford. What a fun night. I got talking to the barman and he told me he had lived in Clifton Hill for a time back in the 90’s. Kate got talking to a guy who turns out to be ‘Big’ Sam Williams manager. We exchanged business cards (note again Mr. Taxman) and he has invited back-stage tomorrow night t catch ‘Big’ Sam’s set on the Abita stage at French Quarter Fest.
It was along walk home but the whole day had been most enjoyable

Day Two

Day 2 – April 7

French Quarter Fest

Now, won’t you batter down by Baton Rouge, River Queen, roll it on.
Take that woman on down to New Orleans, New Orleans.
Go on, I’ve had enough; dump my blues down in the gulf.
She loves you, Big River, more than me. – Big River Johnny Cash

Slept ok and woke at 8:45. The house we are staying in is not bad. Feels a bit like a frat house as there are another 3 guests in another room. They are 3 young girls from New York on their first visit to New Orleans. We finally met the owner Devin and he is very friendly and ready to help in any way he can.

We are about a five minute walk from the Quarter. In fact our street turns into Bourbon once we cross Esplanade. We walked past 1123 Bourbon where we will be staying from next Monday. This is my normal place of residence when in New Orleans. Mickey is hanging out the front with some current guests who I happen to know from past visits. We all caught up like old friends. Mickey does bit part acting and he was keen to tell Kate about some of the NCIS New Orleans episodes he has been in. In fact today he is heading off to another shoot.

The weather is fine and hot. Late breakfast at the Coffee Place. Croissant, eggs and bacon and iced coffee. Picked up the latest Offbeat street mag and started planning which bands to see today.
We got down toward the GE Stage and we ran into Joey a New Orleans police officer who we met last year. We took time to have a chat and Joey welcomed us back to town and then introduced to his Lieutenant

Carol and Stew normally work at the Abita Stage but this year they are at the GE Stage. We got there in time to catch some of the Charlie Wooten Project. Charlie is the bass player with Royal Southern Brotherhood. He is one mighty fine funky player. Enjoyed my first Abita Amber at 1:10. Kate is ahead of me as she hit the Daiquiri stand at 1:10! Wendy is already off taking band photos. Got to speak to Charlie after his set. He told me that James Southwell will be coming to N.O. (New Orleans) mid year to record with him. Charlie will then tour Oz in January with James. I gave Charlie a WOW Business card (please note Mr Taxman that this is a business trip)

Next up is the Tin Men (trio) with Washboard Chaz. Good old timey blues.

Lunch time – 12 hour roast beef po-boy with horse radish cream and pickled red onions. Finger drippin’ and lickin’ good.
We went to Harrah’s Casino for a sit down and a cool down. Kate got a baked potato last year from one of the in-house cafes and she recalled that it was good and very filling.

We got back in time for the Mardi Gras Indians Cha Wa. Mighty fine funky grooves. Said it before and say it again – if you want an education in friendliness and fun then you come to N.O. Right here we have  a music stage next to the mighty Mississippi, watching ships, paddle steamers, ferries and barges either fighting the river or letting the river propel them along.

Wendy and Kate are talking to a guy making elaborate balloon hats. Turns out he spent some time at Latrobe Uni and he played a bit of Aussie Rules. Cara, Kate looks fetching in her balloon hat.
At five we headed to the Abita Stage to catch Fred LeBlanc and Cowboy Mouth. Never a dull moment with this band. Fred always gets the crowd yelling and screaming as he implores the crowd.. he screams ‘and the name of the band is?’ and we scream back COWBOY MOUTH. As he said we are in the greatest city in the world listening to the greatest music in the world. We are alive at the greatest moment in time and god damn we are gunna enjoy ourselves, ya’ll. Oh and I just ate a Cajun meat pie which also fired me up.

At the front of each stage there is a fenced off area for the sponsors. Very nice space with table and chairs and waiter service. Well the people sitting for Cowboy Mouth are in for a surprise. Think our own Chris Wilson and what he says to people who sit at one of his shows but treble that recollection. Fred came off-stage with mic in hand and proceeded to make everyone of them stand up. He told them ‘this ain’t no recording of American Voice, this is a COWBOY MOUTH show. You will dance and scream. He then added that don’t think you are gunna sit back down when I get back up on stage. To prove that point he tipped over all the tables and chairs. He does this with good humour and for the rest of the show those sponsors and guests did indeed perform.

The band finished at 6:45 and we are all dog tired. Not to tired of course to call into Cafe DuMonde for some beignets.
I guess we wanted to pretty much hit bed when we got back but Devin and the three girl guests all came out for a chat which was good. I gave them my recommendations for tomorrow’s must see bands and I think they were impressed with my knowledge of local bands (some may call it showing off). What was really good for us was Devin giving us the heads up on local eating places. Devin himself is an interesting person. Maybe late 20’s? He was in sales but is now renovating a property not far from where we are. He bought the place a few years back as part of a forced possession auction. What happens here is that if you don’t pay your land taxes and keep your place habitable then you rack up stacks of fines. After a period of time the city will compulsory auction the property. The lady that owned the property had 37k in fines. She accepted a 40k offer from Devin to clear her debt. He has ben renovating and showed us some impressive before and after shots. The property in now valued close to 600K.

DAY ONE

Wednesday – April 6th

Day One – Let the fun begin!

We are up at 3:45. That is A.M. for our flight to New Orleans. I booked our flight online through Web Jet. Wendy had gotten a quote for our flights (Melbourne – L.A. – New Orleans but with me being a savvy Internet user I knew I could get cheaper flights. What with the Aussie dollar being a lot weaker than it has been on previous trips then a dollar saved is a dollar drunk. I did get cheaper tickets but there was a down side. Hence the early flight and also (unfortunately) we have a ten hour stopover in L.A.!
First up is a one hour flight to Sydney. Smooth flight (Virgin airlines) and then through customs for the International leg. We are flying Delta airlines but for this first leg of the journey we are on a Virgin flight. I had my first senior moment, heading for seat 56 only for Kate to come and get me as we are in seat 34, we boarded through gate 56!
A long haul flight of just over 13 hours is a head of us. Having noise cancelling headphones (Bose) is so good. If you have never tried this type of quality (noise cancelling) headphone then you don’t know what you have missed. They sure beat the hell out of the bud earpieces you get with Apple products.
Finished up listening to a few albums;
 Pop Staples ‘Peace to the Neighbour
 Wishbone Ash – Pilgrimage (an old favourite)
 Pirana – Pirana !
 Pokey LaFarge – Pokey Lafarge
 Reverand Horton Heat – Reverand Horton Heat
I also watched a movie that I had downloaded (legally) onto my tablet called: Tale of Two Cities an expose of Louisianan Zydeco music. If you want to learn where this music came from and where it is going then this movie is a good start.
On a flight like this (for me) it is near on impossible to sleep. You read as much as you can, listen to music, watch movies and eat airline food all intermingled with trips to the toilet. Still the hours drag. Your eyes become very tired and itchy. But at long last you see that breakfast is about to be served which means you are about 90 minutes out of L.A. I always then get a second wind and the trip somehow feels to have slipped passed rather quickly.
Every time I have got this close to L.A. an old Arlo Guthrie tune pops into my head.
“Coming in from London from over the Pole
Flying in a big airliner
Chickens flying everywhere around the plane
Could we ever feel much finer?
Coming into Los Angeles
Bringing in a couple of keys
But don’t touch my bags if you please
Mister Customs Man”

Well I am not bringing “in a couple of keys”, you old hippies should know what I mean. However I do have a large stash of vegemite and a case full of prescription medicine! I always get crest fallen when I see the length of the line. Today we are in luck as one of the security people spotted my cane and she has ushered us through to an express line. I feel like a bit of a cheat but after such a long flight my legs and feet are hurting and being so tired I also get a little wonky on my feet. Our border protection passport checker was real nice and friendly. As he looked at Kate’s passport photo he commented “seems like the colour of your hair has changed”, if only he knew. When he asked where we were going and we replied “New Orleans” he then asked if I was a Jazz Muso – if only he knew!

We are through all the checks by 8:30 A.M. and even have our bags checked for the next flight. Pretty good of Delta to do that for us as we don’t fly out until 4:30 in the arvo. The girls spoke to an older gentleman who was behind an information desk. He suggested that we hop on a bus and head down to Santa Monica. It will take about an hour but he assured us it would be worth it. He even took us out of the terminal and told us where to pick up a free transit bus.

We got the correct bus without any problems. A $1.25 fare for each of us. This is the “Big Blue” bus line and it is pretty full, with people heading off to work. A well dressed guy in a suit jacket spoke to the girls and gave them a heads up on what to do when we get to Santa Monica. I have heard of the city and know that it is well known for its beautiful beach. Another guy got off at our stop. He looked like he was a chef or something as he had a white jacked over his shoulder. He told us to walk with him as he was heading to a grill/bar where he works and it is right across from the famous Santa Monica pier. He asked some questions of us and I asked him his thoughts on the fascist Donald Trump. He said he was a fuck-wit!

The last sign post for Route 66 is half way along the pier. The weather is real nice, no clouds, now wind and early 20’s temperature wise. Spring has just started in this neck of the woods. The per has amusement rides and food outlets along its length. The waves are rolling in and it looks nice with the hills in the background. Sort of like a bigger and more upmarket version of Apollo Bay.

We finished the pier walk around 10:50 and I am already knackered. The girls want to go shopping so I opted to sit on a park bench and just watch the world go by. Chilled out for about 90 minutes with Kate coming back to my spot with many a shopping bag. We are still in transit and she has smashed the shopping already. Nothing for me though. On our walk back to the bus stop we got a SIM card for my old IPhone. It was desperately needed as I have not been able to contact Devin in New Orleans. We are staying at his house on Tuoro St (in da’ Marigny) we booked through the Air bnb site. I mucked up the dates for our trip and we can’t get into our normal place on Bourbon St for another 5 nights.
I have not been able to confirm how we get a key for the house. We don’t get into New Orleans until 10:45 P.M. I have visions of us being homeless tonight. We can’t yet use the phone as it is not charged.

Back onto the ‘Big Blue’ bus for the trip back to the airport. We are all now dog tired and we still have more than a three hour flight ahead of us. Plus we lose another two hours when we hit New Orleans due to being in a different time zone. We got the phone charged enough at the airport to message Devin and leave a message on his voice mail but we still don’t have a clue on how to pick up a key. Devin has been trying to contact me via the Air bnb site but my replies asking for information have not been getting through. I know the general area where we will be and it is not to far from our favourite neighbourhood bar from last year ‘Iggys’ Kate said if it comes to the worst then the bar is open 24 hours and she will sleep on the pool table.

The flight was uneventful but I am sure I was not imagining that the passengers were all upbeat. They are all either returning home or excited visitors like us. I read a piece of news that two young Australians were shot in Algiers last night (not kiled but still). It turns out that they were in a Bourbon St bar very late at night and decided they would try and source drugs form a guy they had just met. They then got in a car with that same guy that they just meet and were driven across the Mississippi to Algiers where they then decided they didn’t want to buy any drugs. I know it is bad but how stupid can you be. To be honest the same thing could have happened if they had been in a King Street shithole.

We landed right on time and our bags where available for collection as soon as we got to the carasoul. Even better news is that Devin has got a message to us explaining the entry procedure. He has a small key safe attached to the front door and we now have the combination.

Our taxi driver had a lead foot and we were outside our new home for the next few days in a flash. The combination worked fine and we were finally bedded down about midnight. Whew!

Black Facing

I sometimes get angry and can’t hold back when I listen to people (including friends) talking about what is and what is not racism. This was brought home last Friday while having drinks with a group of good friends. Somehow the conversation got around to the recent reporting of Australian basketball player Alice Kunek donning ‘black face’ to attend a dress up party. All of the people in our group went to her defense. ‘She made a mistake’, It’s just a bit of fun’, it doesn’t mean anything’, Australia is not racist,’ ‘why is black facing a problem’ and so on. I could have held my tongue as these are my friends and why indeed should I feel so sad about those comments. Why is it up to me to point out how truly obscene black facing is. Maybe I am being too sensitive? I just couldn’t let those conversations go.

I have always been a big fan of blues music. As such I have read extensively about the evolution of ‘the blues’ and in doing so you then realise how much slavery is sung about in the early forms of the genre. This then lead me onto reading extensively about the obscenity of the slave markets, the Jim Crow laws and the Civil Rights Movement. Black facing has a direct link to Jim Crow. I have visited the National Civil Rights Museum at Memphis, Tennessee on four occasions and it always makes me sad. By the way the museum is next door to the Lorraine motel where Dr. Martin Luther King Jnr was assassinated. So why should I get offended (when I am not black) whilst I am listening/involved with those sort of conversations? Why have I replied to emails that have been sent to me that contain racist jokes or comments and told the sender ‘to not send me that crap’.  I think it is because I have always been of the opinion that if something is just plain wrong then I need to say so irrespective of who I may be speaking too.

Here is an article that was written by Blair L. M. Kelley an associate professor at North Carolina State University:

 

It’s Halloween again and, evidently, it’s the season for people around the world to put on blackface.

Blackface first made the news this holiday season when a former Dancing with the Stars participant darkened her skin to “honor” her favorite actor from Orange is the New Black. News recently broke of a group of Italian fashion executives including designer Alessandro Dell’Acqua donning blackface, complete with jet-black skin, and distended whitened mouths and white gloves at a “Disco Africa” party.

And let’s not forget the Florida man who blackened up to portray a mortally wounded Trayvon Martin. Perhaps folks need a refresher course on why blackface is not a great idea for their next costume party.

Blackface minstrelsy first became nationally popular in the late 1820s when white male performers portrayed African-American characters using burnt cork to blacken their skin. Wearing tattered clothes, the performances mocked black behavior, playing racial stereotypes for laughs. Although Jim Crow was probably born in the folklore of the enslaved in the Georgia Sea Islands, one of the most famous minstrel performers, a white man named Thomas “Daddy” Rice brought the character to the stage for the first time. Rice said that on a trip through the South he met a runaway slave, who performed a signature song and dance called jump Jim Crow. Rice’s performances, with skin blackened and drawn on distended blood red lips surrounded by white paint, were said to be just Rice’s attempt to depict the realities of black life.

Jim Crow grew to be minstrelsy’s most famous character, in the hands of Rice and other performers Jim Crow was depicted as a runaway: “the wheeling stranger” and “traveling intruder.” The gag in Jim Crow performances was that Crow would show up and disturb white passengers in otherwise peaceful first class rail cars, hotels, restaurants, and steamships. Jim Crow performances served as an object lesson about the dangers of free black people, so much so that the segregated spaces first created in northern states in the 1850s were popularly called Jim Crow cars.  Jim Crow became synonymous with white desires to keep black people out of white, middle-class spaces.

Minstrel shows became hugely popular in the 1840s exposing white audiences in the North with their first exposure to any depiction of black life. They would often feature a broad cast of characters; from Zip Coon, the educated free black man who pronounced everything incorrectly, to Mammy, a fat, black faithful slave who was really just obviously played by a man in a dress. Black children were depicted as unkempt and ill raised pickaninnies. The running joke about pickaninnies was that they were disposable; they were easily killed because of their stupidity and the lack of parental supervision.

Minstrelsy desensitized Americans to horrors of chattel slavery. These performances were object lessons about the harmlessness of southern slavery. By encouraging audiences to laugh, they showed bondage as an appropriate answer for the lazy, ignorant slave. Why worry about the abolition of slavery when black life looked so fun, silly, and carefree? Even the violence of enslavement just became part of the joke.

These erroneous portrayals of black life were seen by thousands of Americans in the decades before the Civil War. Mark Twain and Abraham Lincoln attended and enjoyed minstrel shows. President Lincoln had the Union band play Dixie at Lee’s surrender; the comic dialogues in Huckleberry Finn are reminiscent of minstrel performances.  Minstrelsy became America’s first national popular culture.

Minstrelsy lived on long after the Civil War, with African-American performers donning blackface to perform as minstrels on stage. In horrifying irony, white audiences would reject black performers not wearing blackface as not appearing to be black enough. The preeminent African-American vaudeville performer Bert Williams donned blackface for his stage performances.  Audiences refused to allow him to perform without blackening up.

Blackface was used to push products from cigarettes to pancakes while minstrel songs were turned into sheet music, sold and sung around the world. Classic American songs such as “Jimmy Crack Corn,” “Camptown Races” and “Someone’s in the Kitchen with Dinah” all began as minstrel songs. Children’s rhymes and games also are drawn from our minstrel past. “Eeny Meeny, Miny, Moe,” initially commanded that the listener to “catch a ni**er by his toe.” “Do Your Ears Hang Low” was originally the 1829 song entitled “Zip Coon.” The story of the children’s book Ten Little Monkeys was first published as Ten Little Ni**er Boys where each boy was killed as the story progressed.

Blackface became a mainstay of stage and later film performance in the twentieth century. Most often blackface was used as a comic device that played on the stereotypes of black laziness, ignorance, or crass behavior for laughs. Sometimes blackface was used simply to portray black characters. The 1915 film, Birth of a Nation, the first feature film to be shown in the White House, used blackface to portray Reconstruction era black legislators as incompetent and to paint all black men as threatening to rape white women.  The first talking picture, 1927’s The Jazz Singer starred Al Jolson, one of the most famous American performers of his day, in blackface. Even America’s sweetheart, Shirley Temple, donned blackface in 1935 film The Littlest Rebel. While none of the black actors in The Littlest Rebel film wore blackface, they performed in a style first created on the minstrel stage one hundred years earlier.

The history of blackface minstrelsy isn’t talked about regularly today, but its cultural residue is all around us. It’s painful to note that as one of the most unflinching portraits of American slavery hits the screens in 12 Years a Slave, people still continue to blacken up for laughs. Until we actively remember the ugliness of this history, people will continue to blacken their faces without recognizing the horror hidden beneath the paint.

 

So I hope this helps where I am coming from. I don’t want to put my friends ‘off-side’ they are too important to me but I will never let what I perceive to be racist actions ignored.

 

To finish let me pose this question to you. When Eugene ‘Hideaway’ Bridges is next at the club what do you think his reaction would be if I started a conversation with him by saying ‘well we here think that black facing is not offensive and it is just a little bit of harmless fun!