treme54's Blog

Sun gonna shine in my back door someday An’ the wind gonna change gonna blow my blues away. —Tommy Johnson, “Maggie Campbell Blues,” 1928

We are on the road at 7:30 in search of coffee. The first stop before the caffeine rush is to pull up at the Riverside Hotel. The hotel was used as a stopping-off point for Blues performers on their way to Chicago. It is also the hotel in which the famed blues singer Bessie Smith died after a car accident. We were pointed in the direction of Yazoo Pass coffee, and we are now ready for the road.

We are on U.S. 49 East/South and we are very surprised the see that there is a road sign saying the Emmett Till Memorial Highway. Wow, that is a change of heart for the state of Mississippi. We found Bryant’s Grocery, now in ruins. There is a Civil Rights memorial marker explaining the history of what happened here. I am sure many of you have recently viewed the Emmet Till movie.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Emmett_Till

Now on to Greenwood. We stopped off at Robert Johnson’s grave site at the First Little Zion M.B. church. There is some conjecture about the documented site of Johnson’s grave but it does not stop us from paying homage to the legendary Bluesman.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Robert_Johnson

The next stop is the Tallahatchie Bridge, made famous in the 1967 release of Ode To Billie Joe by Bobbie Gentry. The original wooden bridge collapsed in 1972 after being set alight by vandals. The boulevard into the town is picturesque, tree-lined with many impressive homes.

It was the third of June, another sleepy, dusty Delta day
I was out choppin’ cotton, and my brother was balin’ hay
And at dinner time we stopped and walked back to the house to eat
And mama hollered out the back door, y’all, remember to wipe your feet
And then she said, I got some news this mornin’ from Choctaw Ridge
Today, Billy Joe MacAllister jumped off the Tallahatchie Bridge

Today is a sort of get-in and get-out sort of day as we visit historical sites one after another on our way to our overnight stop in Leland, Mississippi.

Indianola was the birthplace and is now the resting place of the one and only B.B. King (died 14/05/2015, aged 89). He returned every year for his Indianola homecoming. There has been a museum and interpretive center in the town since 2008. The last time I was here Mr. King was still alive. There are now more exhibits to view, including his personal studio, Rolls Royce, ute, and tour bus. When you exit the museum you are directed to a very tasteful memorial to the great man at his final resting place.

We stopped off for lunch at another roadside Mexican diner (when will we learn?) called Los Molcuajettes. Average food, good service, and unlimited Dr. Pepper. At 2:07 we are on our way to Greenville. Bernie is after a couple of long-sleeved t-shirts for bike riding and he wants to find a T J Maxx outlet. We pulled into a Mall and there was the outlet. I tell you without a lie we were nearly the only people in the whole complex. I had to find a rest room which took me to another department store. An older employee looked a little suspiciously at me and asked what I was looking for. I am looking a little unkempt, I know. Anyway, I did what I had to do and, as I exited, I saw a security man waiting for me just to make sure, I guess, that I was legit.

We then stopped off at the Cypress Preserve Trust, a sixteen-acre cypress break in what is known as a slough. A slough is a wetland depression or swamp in which cypress trees grow. the cypress likes slow-moving water. There is a warning sign to be aware of. ‘Leaves of three let be’. It will be poison ivy.

We make our final stop at Leland. Leland was the childhood home of the Muppets creator Jim Henson and also a young Johnny Winter. The Air BnB is a little older than most of the accommodations we have stayed in but it is clean. The owner left a stack of snacks as well as bacon and eggs. Very nice gesture. She also left little pamphlets around the place about why Jesus is the man! Just to finish up a comment on the billboards we have seen while traveling through Mississippi. They are mostly ads for accident lawyers or religious musings. The most ridiculous one I noted said something like ‘ and God Created the World’ accompanied by a drawing of the classic evolution chain with a big X to cross it out.

“Aw shake it; that’s what I’m talkin’ about.” —Memphis Minnie, “Reachin’ Pete,” 1935

We are on the road by eight o’clock. We are heading to Clarksdale but we will have a detour to check out Oxford. Bernie hopes that the suspension holds for the car as there are some mighty big pot-holes on the road heading to the freeway. We head out on the I20 South. Through Como and then into Oxford, Mississippi by 9:30. Oxford is a university town and the very famous ‘Ole Mis is a prestigious university. It has a football stadium that seats near on 100,000 people. School break is over and the city is buzzing with students.

I went a little crazy at one of the classy bookshops in the Square. Oxford is a beautiful town, very clean, and has a lot of history with regard to the Civil War. The Yankees in fact burned most of the square down.

https://www.oxfordms.net/reference/history

We also went into the best men’s clothing store I have ever been in. Unfortunately, the price tags were a little on the high side. Our next place to visit was the grave site of the Nobel Prize-winning author William Faulkner (William Falkner). Mr. Faulkner also has some history in New Orleans. We found the cemetery easily enough but the grave site was another matter. Wendy saw a guy driving a truck and it turned out to be the cemetery maintenance man. Willie was his name, he said hop in and I’ll drive y’all to it. I paid my due respects. I have read three of Mr. Faulkner’s books. Absalom Absalom, As I Lay Dying, and The Sound and the Fury. Mr. Faulkner’s books are difficult to read but you must persevere. His descriptions of life in the South are something to savor. We then went to the home he lived in after returning from New Orleans (Rowan Oak). It is closed on Mondays but we were able to walk around the grounds.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/William_Faulkner

I had been telling my fellow travelers that the Ajax Diner has the best meatloaf in the world. That is because Brian Wise told me that. It was only 11:30 but there was already a line waiting to get in. We all ordered the meatloaf with various sides. Drum Roll – after such a big build-up the meatloaf was very underwhelming.

On the road and on our way to Clarksdale. We are driving through the heart of the Delta, flat land and plenty of crops are underway. We got into town around 2:30 and checked out Cat Head Records. There is still a lot of advertising around the place about the Juke Joint Festival that was held a few weeks back. I know there was a strong contingent of Aussies in attendance. We checked out the famous Crossroads sign and then headed over to the Shack Up Inn to check in.

https://www.shackupinn.com/

So here is a special treat for y’all. I am handing over to Bernie to tell you about our night-time adventures

Our evening out in Clarksdale starts badly. We meet for a drink at the Commissary at the Shack Up Inn (described rather accurately by Mohair Slim as Disneyland for Blues fans). An acoustic duo is playing covers, with a schizophrenic sound system. A couple of rednecks decide that they can talk louder than the band. Then, sin of sins, the duo butcher two John Prine songs. It all adds up to a disaster, so we head to town. Our destination is Bluesberry Cafe. Our man at Cat Head Records has alerted us to the show there tonight. He tells us that Watermelon Slim, who graced the WOW stage with Fiona Boyes, may make an appearance as it is his 74th birthday.

We sneak onto the last free table – good timing. The place is buzzing, and the band is setting up, and yes, there is Watermelon Slim. Rob reacquaints himself with the great man. Yes, he remembers bits of his Australian trip. He comes over later to tell us that he is wearing a special shirt with an Aussie indigenous design. He literally swapped shirts with a bloke he met on the street on his trip down under.

The act appearing tonight is Lucious Spiller and band. They are a bit scratchy at the beginning and take a while to warm into the groove. A few songs into the set an acquaintance walks in and suddenly he has Lucious’ guitar and has joined the band. A few songs later, a young guy (dubbed “hopeless case” by us due to his t-shirt design) takes out a harmonica and the once four-piece band is now six players. Then Watermelon sings a song and that makes seven. He then retreats to the bongos. Hang on ….. a guy has pulled out a flute, it is now an eight-piece orchestra! Monday night is clearly jam night at the cafe. The band plays a lot of blues classics – Little Red Rooster, Further On Up The Road, and Sweet Home Chicago. A couple of non-blues songs are added to the set, including Dock of the Bay and Johnny B Goode.

We had a feed of muffulettas – oversized stuffed sandwiches to soak up the beer. But it wasn’t about the food. It was a typical Monday night of music and friendship in the Blues capital of the world.

https://www.facebook.com/BluesberryCafe/

Have you ever been to Memphis an’ you stopped at Uncle Jim Kinnane? He will pay more for a woman, any farmer pay for land. —Roosevelt Sykes, “Roosevelt’s Blues,” 1929

Sunday and it is a slow start to the day. Bernie and Hoff head over to Sun Studios for a tour. I have been to the studio two times and decided not to go.

1. Beale St. 2. Sun Studios 3. National Civil Rights Museum 4. B.B. King’s Club 6. Peabody Hotel 7. Victorian Village Historical District 8. Main St. Trolley 9. Mud Island River Park 10. Stax Museum

One o’clock and Wendy and I head down to Beale St for lunch. Not much happening this time of the day. Beale Street looks a little sad when the lights are not blazing, the music blaring and the crowds are roaming the street. One of the shops that has been a bit of an institution, Tater Red’s, has closed for good. We decided to have lunch at the Tin Roof, we were the only people in the place, a few people wandered in a bit later.

We went back to the apartment and waited for Hoff and Bernie to come back. The plan is to go back to Beale, and have a look at the Rum Boogie Cafe and have a quiet afternoon of music. Chardonnay in Memphis (if you can find it) is of the cardboard box vintage. Apple Cider is mostly not available. I got the drinks in. I left my blogging book on the bar and the lovely bar attendant found it and returned it to me (a cunning plan). There is a blues singer on stage. Chris Gale, he is listenable. There are only eight of us seated around the bandstand. After about half an hour there are only us four and one other punter.

We left the bar around six. Hoff and Bernie have researched a fancy wine bar and are off to taste a few different vintages. Beale Street is starting to happen now as most of the bars are pumping out Blues standards and there are many more tourists about.

I am pretty tired so Wendy and I headed back for an early night. My plan was to get some take-out chicken from Gus’s but there was at least a half-hour wait. Hopefully with a long sleep tonight I will be up and about tomorrow.

You went to Memphis, found a butter an’ egg man there And now you’re trying to, give your regular man the air. —Charlie Spand, “Ain’t Gonna Stand For That,” 1929

It is going to be a pleasant day for walking around Memphis, with no rain and 19 degrees.

Put on my blue suede shoes
And I boarded the plane
Touched down in the land of the Delta Blues
In the middle of the pouring rain
W.C. Handy, won’t you look down over me?
Yeah, I got a first-class ticket
But I’m as blue as a boy can be

Then I’m walking in Memphis
Was walking with my feet ten feet off of Beale
Walking in Memphis
But do I really feel the way I feel? – (Walking in Memphis – Marc Cohn)

Wendy and I took a Trolly to ride the length of Main Street. Interestingly we ride Trollys in Memphis and Street Cars in New Orleans. This is my third visit to Memphis and a lot of the sights are familiar to me. There are more people on the hustle than in the other cities we have so far visited. On our way back to the apartment I called into Gus’s World Famous Fried Chicken. It is only 11:30 and the restaurant is already full of people and many more are waiting for take-out. It is never too early for fried chicken. A good ‘ole boy complimented me on my Muscle Shoals Swampers t-shirt.

Lunch today was at Memphis’ oldest restaurant (est 1919) and the favorite hangout for Elvis. The Arcade restaurant is very busy due to the Elvis connection. I can’t go past the most famous sandwich in the world. Fried peanut butter, banana, and bacon. Good enough for the King, good enough for me. We all ordered our meal sans fries and the waitress has a look of disbelief on her face, even maybe distress. “What y’all don’t want fries?” The restaurant is trading on its fame as the food is very underwhelming.

Our first cultural visit for the day is the Blues Foundation’s Blues Hall of Fame. The last time I was in Memphis the Hall of Fame was still in the planning process, it opened 1n 2015. The exhibits are all first class. As we read the names of all the inductees, Bernie and I decided to count the artists we had seen live. The count got very loud toward the end as we tried to outdo each other. Mighty proud to say R.R. 29 B.B. 26. The foundation hosts the International Blues Challenge each year and Australia has an incredible track record. This year WOW favorite Frank Sultana took out the solo/duo acoustic category. Another thing to note is that WOW has hosted at our club the following Inductees – Charlie Musselwhite, John Hammond, Big Jay McNeely, and Joe Louis Walker. Visit blues.org

Our next visit is to the Civil Rights Museum. The third visit for me and each time I go I feel the same raw emotions of sadness and at times disgust at what so-called civilized man can perpetrate so much pain and misery on another group of people. It is a sobering experience and, unfortunately, man’s inhumanity to man still continues around the world today. Of all the people I wished I had the chance to hear speak it would have to be Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. I know I have been leaving lots of links for you to enjoy. You just have to check this one for your own enlightenment. Dr. King was assassinated whilst most of us were living on this planet.

https://www.civilrightsmuseum.org/

1. The Infamous Balcony at the Lorraine Motel 2. Sister Rosa Parkes bus boycott 3. The shot was fired from this window

We head back to the apartment for a rest before dinner. Our location really is sensational We are able to walk to most of the attractions that are on our bucket list.

Tonight we are dining at the best-known rib place on the planet, Charlie Vergo’s Rendevous. Rendevous has been dishing up ribs for its basement premises since 1948. We had about a fifteen-minute wait to get a table (no reservations are allowed). We have two of Bernie’s very good friends Charles and Susanne meeting us at 6:30. Bernie and his wife Neva lived and worked in Cleveland, Ohio for some four years. Charles and Susanne were their neighbors and they all became lifelong friends. They are now back live in the suburbs of Memphis. They are a delightful couple and we had a great time talking about each of our countries. They are in real fear of the state of politics in the U.S.A. We shared an appetizer of sausage and cheese. I had a half-rack of ribs with sides of baked beans and a mustardy ‘slaw. Delicious, finger-licking good. If you are ever in Memphis you must give it a go.

A small section of the menu:

CHARBROILED PORK RIBS Large Order 22.75

CHARBROILED PORK RIBS Small Order 18.25

CHARBROILED PORK RIBS Full Slab for Two

COMES WITH TWO BEANS, TWO SLAW 33.00

PORK RIBS & SHOULDER COMBINATION 23.50PORK RIBS & CHICKEN BREAST COMBINATION 23.50

PORK RIBS & BRISKET COMBINATION 23.50

GRILLED HALF CHICKEN 18.50

GRILLED CHICKEN BREAST 14.50

BEEF BRISKET 19.50

LAMB RIBLETS MKT

PORK SHOULDER PLATE 12.50
*All of the above served with Beans & Mustard Vinegar Based Slaw.

MEATLESS RED BEANS & RICE 12.00
Served with slaw, pickles, peppers, cheese & crackers

SKILLET OF SHRIMP
Give us 24 hours notice and we’ll give you a big old skillet full of barbecue shrimp right there at your table … five mouth-watering pounds that’ll have up to eight people praising your name. For pricing and to place your order, just call a day ahead.

I wonder if the chinches bite in Beaumont, like they do in Beale Street town The first night I stayed in Memphis, chinch bugs turned my bed around. —Blind Lemon Jefferson, “Chinch Bug Blues,” 1927

Breakfast first, we head to Cafe de Frida a local Mexican Cantina which was named after the famed artist Frida Kahlo I had my first Spanish Latte. Great coffee but oh so sweet.

We are off to Memphis today for a three-night stay. But first, we must visit the other music studio, Muscle Shoals which is in nearby Sheffield. An observation, nearly all the small businesses we have looked at are closed on Sunday. I guess attendance at one of the many churches in the area is compulsory.

We make a quick stop at the Florence Marina Harbor on the Tennesse River. As well as being churchgoers the people of this town are also boat owners. A picturesque spot.

We arrived at the Muscle Shoals Studio in time for our 10:30 tour. I got myself a Swampers T-shirt and a bound leather notebook. This studio was a break-away from FAME and in its nine-year recording history produced over 360 albums. Many of them are big hits. It was a fantastic tour, the guy leading us has an intimate knowledge of the studio and got emotional when talking. Lynard Skynard started their life in this studio.

Now Muscle Shoals has got the Swampers
And they’ve been known to pick a song or two (yes they do)
Lord they get me off so much
They pick me up when I’m feelin’ blue
Now how about you?

Sweet home Alabama
Where the skies are so blue
Sweet home Alabama
Lord I’m comin’ home to you

I will again leave the detailed history to the experts:

https://muscleshoalssoundstudio.org/pages/history

Back in the car and we go past the birthplace of Helen Keller. We are heading toward Corinth which is 45 miles down the track. It is a cloudy day and looks ominous. Yep, here it comes, starting with a few spots of rain and then into a downpour. We pull off into Corinth at 12:40. We had been told to try out a diner, the Dinner Bell (Steak and Fish). Our waitress is very excited as we are the first Australians she has ever met. I went for the fried pork chops, fries, and ‘slaw with a large root beer. If your root beer gets to be half-empty another full one arrives at the table. Hoff finished up drinking three root beers. After finishing our meal and getting the bill our waitress told us not to hurry, y’all sit a while, if you want.

Now we are heading to Memphis, 66 miles to go. The rain has let up much to all our relief. Wendy got a message from Skye to stay that have just hit Nashville and will be following the same route to Memphis that we have taken. Thick forest on either side of the road. Bugger, the rain is back as we pass the Bird Dog Museum. Now it is pissing down and very dark as we cross into Tennessee at 2:50. Hoff is playing Supertamp’s ‘It’s Raining Again’, very apt. On the other side of the freeway, we see three cars that have run off the road in this very heavy rain, one being a Sherriff’s car, and an ambulance with lights and sirens blaring is trying to get through. Most cars are slowing down but there are a few cowboys charging through. Bernie did a magnificent job driving through this monsoon. I keep thinking of Suster Rosetta Tharpe’s classic song, ‘Didn’t It Rain’!

Didn’t it rain, children
Talk ’bout rain, oh, my Lord
Didn’t it, didn’t it, didn’t it, oh my Lord
Didn’t it rain?

It rained 40 days, 40 nights without stopping
Noah was glad when the rain stopped dropping
Knock at the window, a knock at the door
Crying brother Noah can’t you take on more
Noah cried no, you’re full of sin
God got the key and you can’t get in

We decide to take a tour of the Stax Museum before going to our Air BnB. I have been to Stax a couple of times but there is always something new to see. It is Hoff’s first visit to Memphis and a visit to Stax is definitely required. The last time I was at Stax, the Memphis Slim house across from the museum had a serious lean to it and a sign said it was to be renovated. That did not happen, the good news is that there is a new tastefully built Memphis Slim visitor’s center on-site. Here are just a few of the artists who recorded at Stax: Otis Redding, Johnnie Taylor, Isaac Hayes, The Bar-Kays, Sam & Dave, The Staple Singers, Booker T. & the MGs, Ike & Tina Turner, Aretha Franklin, Al Green, Rufus & Carla Thomas, Eddie Floyd, and many others.

https://staxmuseum.com/

Back at the car and Hoff noticed something hanging from the bottom of it. He got down on his back and saw that a piece of the protective casing had come loose. The car is still drivable and we head to our accommodation which has a locked garage. The car hire company insists that all its cars be securely garaged if you are going to Memphis. Hoff turned into McGyver and fixed the loose panel with make-shift tools.

Accommodation is very good and only a 10-minute walk down to Beale Street. We decided on take-out for dinner. The world-famous Gus’s Fried Chicken is a block away. Fried chicken, fried green tomatoes, and baked beans are the order of the day with sweets being a chocolate chess pie. As their slogan states, ‘If you haven’t eaten at Gus’s. you haven’t eaten fried chicken’. I think they are right!

Now some people say chitlins are good to eat I’ll never eat chitlins long as a hog got feet. —Papa Charlie Jackson, “Mama, Don’t You Think I Know?” 1925

Saturday, April 15^th

Santa Fe

One day in Santa Fe ……. Starts with a walk into town in search of caffeine ……. Yes, you’re getting the drift. Not too much open early but we find the plaza and there it is The Plaza Café. This is a super arty town, artists are not known for getting up early, so we must take the plunge or wander aimlessly like bloody tourists. Looks a bit spiffy, staff everywhere in starched white shirts and pressed black slacks, could be charging a premium ….. but unlike Spain, France, or Italy ……it is not the dodgy plaza café We here for the coffee but don’t turn down the option of breakfast, Bernie the breakfast burrito, me a piñon corn pancake with orange butter and cinnamon syrup. The coffee is good, and the food is very tasty – we’ve done well. Wendy and Rob are Ubering down, a delayed breakfast for them.

We’re goon’ upmarket again to a recommenced Italian restaurant, Osteria D’Assisi just outside the Plaza area. We are doing Super Tuscan …..  Bernie is keen but at a similar price point, I also offer the waitress a Rosso Di Montalchino and an aged Barbaresco option – no hesitation, she goes the SuperTuscan and we enjoy it during the meal and dessert. The meals a bit of a mixed bag, my chicken stuffed with spinach and wrapped in prosciutto in tomato sauce topped with Parmesan, worthy indeed. Wendy’s octopus and exotic lobster/fish pasta are both underwhelming. Rob’s lasagne is a trusty & safe option. We have room for dessert and they are pretty good although I am now worried about that Tiramisu weighing on the valve overnight! This is the sort of place that is within 3 standard deviations but will never be memorable.

Sunday, April 16^th

Fly to Nashville

Bernie is a predawn planner- up at 4:30 am, shower & pack the mothership for its last voyage. Of course, the rental car return is a bus trip to the terminal, check-in, screening and it’s time to board – time only for a cookie and a slurp. At least we are on time to Houston, but the second leg is late by 2 hours, sufficient time for a double espresso and chicken Caesar wrap – great job BB.

We find our apartment, drop the bags and hurtle toward a hastily chosen Martin’s BBQ …… whoa, there is a line, too hard so Broadway and the Honky Tonks beckon. Wall-to-wall saloon establishments – bands virtually play next to each other,  feels like Moses has brought all the people to this spot and they are ready to play. We go to the Assembly Food Hall to improve the chance of a beer and food. As a rule, I’m not a fan of food malls and after a $50 round of drinks, I’m still there.

Monday, April 17^th 

Nashville Day 1 We meet up for lunch at Rob’s choice, Princes Hot Chicken ……. We track it down – it’s In The Assembly Food Hall …I’m forlorn. It is still a swathing mass of people, but I may have been a little harsh in my jet-lagged judgment.  If you forget the booze and ignore the masses, there is a huge variety to choose from. Perhaps not at the standard of the archetypal Lisbon model, which emulates the city’s better restaurants, but this is Downtown Nashville and the alternatives are queues, noise, or $$$. Three of us opt for the hot chicken ….. not for the faint-hearted and trust me it’s as hot coming out as it went in ….. I may have to refrain from further valve action for some time.

3^rd & Lindsey tonight, first music, first real tight Nashville sound – there are 4 fiddlers In the Country Hall of Fame, 2 are in the band tonight – Time Jumpers, a slick act of Western Swing from yodel to Jazz & Blues,  this is the jizz.  The food is possibly not stunning but fills the gaps ….tonight it’s about the music, Rob has a res – erectIon, and the change from deserts to music suites him just fine – perhaps the cider helps!

Mister engineer, please turn your train around I believe to my soul, my man is ’bama bound. —Ida Cox, “Bama Bound Blues,” 1923

Today we drive from Nashville to Muscle Shoals, Alabama. Why Muscle Shoals I hear you nonmusic nerds ask? It just happens to be the home of two of the most prolific music studios in the world, FAME and Muscle Shoals itself.

Bernie and Hoff left about 8 o’clock to pick up our new hire car that will see out the road trips until we reach New Orleans. We have a number of overnight stays ahead of us before we reach my favorite city in the world. Today we head toward Muscle Shoals, Alabama. We are ‘bama bound, baby. We are aiming to stop off first at Ethridge. Why Ethridge, you ask. Because it is an Amish county.

The desert landscape is now a distant memory. It is nothing but green grass and trees. I love looking at the road signs that wizz past. We just went past the Historic Site of the 1964 Battle of Spring Hill. Now for all you Chain fans out there, you may recall that Chain sang the old classic Spring Hill at the last WOW gig. Not sure if Chain were at the Battle of Spring Hill! Check out this bit of Confederate War history:

https://www.battlefields.org/learn/civil-war/battles/spring-hill

We turn right onto State Route 66 and head toward Columbia. We decided not to stop at the Amish welcome center but we did see three Amish driving their horse and cart. We must be in critter/varmint country as we just passed a Rabies Clinic! I wish I had my “Coon” cap in the car with me as we are nearing David Crockett’s State Park Restaurant. We stopped at a funky cafe Co-Works Cafe for a very nice coffee.

There seems to be a church every mile or so. At 12:45 we crossed into Alabama. Lunch is needed and we decided on Rick’s BBQ est. 1979.

The next stop was to visit the historic W.C.Handy birth home and museum. We don’t have a lot of time as we need to be at FAME Studios for our guided tour. The self-guided tour is $12 but there is also an hour video to watch. We just do not have enough time, so just take a few photos of the outside of the home. W.C.Handy is celebrated as the father of the blues.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/W._C._Handy

We are back on the road and cross the magnificent Tennessee River. When we get to FAME we are greeted by the widow of Rick Hall, Miss Linda. Down south all the ladies are called Miss accompanied by their first name no matter their age. She gave us a little background history on what it was like being married to such a driven man. There are about twenty people on the tour. Our young tour guide is informative. He said something I found very interesting about the state of the recording industry at present. ‘In the old day, tours were done to promote a new record, nowadays it is about making a record to promote a tour’. With Spotify and other streaming programs recorded music is not selling the volumes it once did, so it is not as lucrative. That is why bands like Kiss and the Stones continue to tour.

The studio is still active making music, up to 3 to 4 days a week. We had a look through Rick Hall’s office and also into the break room. The county we are in used to be “dry” but you could always get a drink in the break room. The musicians referred to it as their own little Speakeasy. Duane Allman was a session musician at FAME and would often just sleep on the studio floor. The number of hit records that came out of here is astounding. We first visit Studio A. Mr. Terry Smith, Mustang Sally was recorded in this room! The Hammond B3 used by Greg Allman to record his last album before passing is in the room.

We then head to Studio B which is a little smaller. There is the Steinway that Little Richard played and Aretha Franklin. The Swampers were the backing band for all these incredible artists. I encourage you to do some research. I cannot give but a very brief introduction of why this studio is so important. If you have not yet seen the 2013 documentary, Muscle Shoals then you should be able to find it on most streaming channels and YouTube. Even those that do not follow music a great deal will know a song or two that emanated from this magic studio. http://www.famestudio.com

So we finish the amazing tour at 5 PM and drive the short distance back to Florence. Hoff notices that there are a lot of large trees down and one tree had demolished the roof of a house. We found out later that a tornado went through here not that long ago. Our host greets us at the door, he and his partner live in the next-door house. The accommodation is first class. He recommended a restaurant for dinner, Odette. We took his advice and the food was excellent as was the service. Downtown Florence is a great happening scene. So ends another day. Tomorrow we head to Memphis for a three-night stay, but before we leave we will visit the Muscle Shoals studio nearby. FAME Studios had a falling out with their musicians the Swampers and those young boys left and went on to open their own studio. Hence FAME Studios is in the town of Muscle Shoals and Muscle Shoals Studio in Sheffield. The music business is a funny one at times.

Keep talkin’ about the woman next door I caught her boogie-woogyin’ down on the floor. —Kokomo Arnold, “Busy Bootin’,” 1935

Wendy and I have booked a tour of the Grand Ole Opry. Bernie and Hoff are not coming on this one and are off to do a bit more exploring by foot.

It is about a twenty-minute drive to the Opry. I know this is not the original building. However, when in Nashville it is a must-visit. “The Grand Ole Opry is a weekly American country music stage concert in Nashville, Tennessee, founded on November 28, 1925, by George D. Hay as a one-hour radio “barn dance” on WSM. Currently owned and operated by Opry Entertainment (a division of Ryman Hospitality Properties, Inc.), it is the longest-running radio broadcast in U.S. history. Dedicated to honoring country music and its history, the Opry showcases a mix of famous singers and contemporary chart-toppers performing country, bluegrass, Americana, folk, and gospel music as well as comedic performances and skits. It attracts hundreds of thousands of visitors from around the world and millions of radio and internet listeners.” – Wikipedia

The tour starts with a short video giving us some background history. Along one of the walls are gold plaques denoting the 228 artists who are members of the Grand Ole Opry.

‘The Opry’s management team selects a handful of new members each year, taking into consideration the standards that measure success in a country artist’s career: radio airplay, record sales, touring, and recognition by their industry peers. There are currently 70 Grand Ole Opry members, seven of whom have retired from performing but are still listed as standing members. Over the course of the program’s history, 228 acts have held Opry membership since the show’s inception.

We then went on a backstage tour. I found the tour fascinating as we stopped at the artist’s entrance, the many dressing rooms. All were given a unique name, then onto the green room (which they called the family room.) There is a line on the wall indicating the height the water reached during the 2010 flood. ‘On May 1-2, 2010, more than 13 inches of rain fell on Music City, causing massive flooding all across the area. The Cumberland River, which runs close to the Grand Ole Opry, overflowed, resulting in severe destruction at the Opry as well as at the nearby Opryland Hotel, which evacuated all 1,500 of its guests.

Next, we move onto the stage itself. I mentioned that we are not in the original building. The Oprey moved here in 1975. They cut a large circle out of the old stage and embedded it into the new stage. We have our photo taken standing in the very circle that thousands of legends have graced. “Will The Circle Be Unbroken” Our tour ends with another raid on a Gift Shop. For a detailed history check out:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grand_Ole_Opry

We headed over to a nearby Mall for lunch. We found a food outlet, Kelly’s Cajun Grill and the food was not bad at all.

We got back to our apartment around 1:30 and Bernie and Hoff arrived a few minutes later. Looks like a restful afternoon for all before we head out for dinner and a band. It gave me a chance to catch up with the Blog as I am a couple of days behind. Bernie has been doing the editing for me. He has very high standards when it comes to punctuation!

We have tickets pre-booked for Canadian Bluesman Colin Janes and his band who will be performing at the Nashville Winery. We got there at 6 to have dinner. Doors are slotted to open at 7:30 with the show starting at 8:30. The dining area is more upmarket than what we have been experiencing but that did not equate with the service or food they provided. For an establishment that calls itself a winery (albeit a franchise) the wine that Bernie was served was very ordinary. They have a severe staff shortage as well. Meals come out to the wrong tables and Hoff was delivered a beer he did not order. Not a good start.

We are allowed into the band room just after 7:30 and get a front stage table. The place is full of ex-pat Canadians. I have a couple of Colin James C.D.s and so I am confident about a good show.

‘From the prairies of Saskatchewan to sharing the stage with arguably the greatest and most influential guitarists of all time, Colin James still remembers those words of advice given to him by the late, great, Stevie Ray Vaughan. Colin James has taken those words to heart. His career has spanned over 30 years, with a track record that includes 20 studio albums, 8 Juno Awards, 27 Maple Blues Awards, and multi-platinum record sales.  His latest release, Open Road, is a celebration of personal connections. It includes original tunes written with long-time collaborators such as Colin Linden, Craig Northey, and Tom Wilson and reinterpretations of covers by a diverse group of songwriters including Bob Dylan, Albert King, Tony Joe White, and others.‘

The band comes on stage right on time, with drums, rhythm guitar, and bass/harp. Colin himself comes on a few seconds later with the guitar blazing. He has all the tricks and rock star poses. Wendy should get some awesome photos. Bernie and Hoff moved back to some seats near the sound desk for a more relaxed listen. I must admit that there are some dumb-ass, screaming Canadians carrying on way too much. We listen to originals and covers of Freddie King, Tony Joe White, Albert King, and Otis Rush. The hardest working man is the Guitar Tech as Colin seems to change guitar after every song. Blues/Rock, Boogie, and even a little funk are thrown into the mix. The Rhythm Guitarist is no slouch either when ripping out a solo. The crowd sings along to all the songs. He did a very good version of Fleetwood Mac’s ‘Oh Well’ and for an encore threw in Van Morrisons’s ‘Into the Mystic’. I thoroughly enjoyed the gig. We have had three days of great music and all so different. Western Swing, Bluegrass, and now Blues Rock. Nashville sure is Music City.

My advice for anyone coming to Nashville is to stay away from Broadway’s cliched Honky Tonks and search out legit music venues. Much like New Orleans, stay away from Bourbon Street cover bands and instead head to Frenchman St or one of the legit music venues around town.

I drink so much whiskey, I stagger in my sleep My brains is dark and cloudy, my mind’s goin’ to my feet. —Blind Willie McTell, “Dark Night Blues,” 1927

We are back on Broadway just after 11. Today being Tuesday, it is a lot quieter on this tourist strip. Much like the French Quarter, the tourists start rolling in Thursday afternoon and party Friday, Saturday, and Sunday before heading off on Monday. Is it too early for Barb -B- Que? What a silly question. We head on to Jack’s. I order Pulled Pork Shoulder with two sides, Mac ‘n’ Cheese, and Baked Beans all washed down with a Dr. Pepper.

Today we have not one but two museums to visit. The first is the Country Music Hall of Fame and then we will be picked up for a short bus trip to the R.C.A. recording studio.

The Hall of Fame extends to three floors and is an incredibly well-laid-out museum. I was so impressed with the exhibits and photographs. Check it out at:

https://www.countrymusichalloffame.org/

After a couple of hours, we get together again and hit the Gift Shop. At two-thirty, we meet our tour guide for a short bus trip to the historic R.C.A. studio B. Our tour guide is enthusiastic as she plays a tune on the bus that was recorded in the studio and we have a bit of a sing-along. That becomes the then theme of the tour, a lot of sing-alongs. Have you heard of the Nashville Cats? Well, the famed Nashville Sound was reliant on those guys. The number of hits that came out of this very studio is mind-boggling. When we get into the studio proper there is a cross on the floor that designates the “sweet spot” where the vocalists would stand. We are all encouraged to sit at the Steinway piano that has been in use since the 1940’s. Just don’t touch the ivories. Elvis spent a lot of time in this studio. In fact, he recorded here for 13 years. Our tour guide turned off the lights and we listened to Elvis’s “Are You Lonesome Tonight”. He had insisted that he wanted to record the song in darkness.

https://www.countrymusichalloffame.org/experiences/studio-b

Photo: Hoff and Rob at the Steinway

At 6:30 we are lining up to get into the Station Inn which is another country juke joint with quality music. We are here to see the Green River Revue which is a Bluegrass Band. Last night’s band, the Time Jumpers had a long residency here but they outgrew the size of the venue. It is an old place with loads of character. The drinks available are beer, one type of hard cider, and a seltzer. No wine! The ladies restroom has two cubicles one with a door and one with a curtain. The only food available is pizza.

The band starts at 8 o’clock. Banjo, fiddle, bass, guitar, and mandolin. Apart from the bass, everything was acoustic. We are on to another winner, fantastic music and harmonies with a lot of very funny stage banter. Thoroughly entertaining. We are treated to two sets of classic old-timey Bluegrass and some originals. I am guessing that apart from the bass player all the members are under thirty. The singer/banjo man is from Kentucky and at times his thick drawl is hard to understand. We also heard some old Gospel tunes, The South take their religion very seriously. The band finish up with the classic “Stagolee” and they were joined on stage by a slide guitarist, the barman playing guitar and another guy playing guitar, It sure was a big finish to a great night.

Way down South you oughta see the women Shimmy and shake Got a new way a-wiggle, make a weak man break his neck. —Blind Lemon Jefferson, “Southern Woman Blues,” 1928

Bernie and Hoff are taking a walk down to the Gulch and we will meet up with them for lunch in an hour or so. We were in an Uber at 11. David is our driver, a very talkative and friendly man. He loves Kiwis and Aussies and he had us write our names into an exercise book he has in the back set pocket and also leave a message. He also loves to receive Christmas Cards and we are now on his mailing list. It is Monday morning and Broadway’s Honky Tonks are already firing.

Wendy hits one of the many Boots stores, they have a three-for-one deal, and you just pay the price of the most expensive boots. As we leave the store they ring a bell to celebrate the sale.

We decide to try Prince’s Chicken. The first choice was Hattie B’s Hot Chicken but the line was too long even at such an early time. Our Uber driver had recommended Prince’s but warned us not to go above medium heat. Nashville is famous for its Hot Chicken (and I don’t mean hot cooked). I did order medium and Wendy went for mild. Glad I listened to our driver’s advice. It was HOT. Bernie tried a piece and he hyper-ventilated for five minutes.

Tonight (on the recommendation of Brian Wise) we are heading to 3rd. and Lindsley which is a premier music venue. So superior to the Broadway Honky Tonks. There is already a line to get in and we had arrived half an hour early. We are to see The Time Jumpers. An eight-piece band Western Swing band. Drums, two guitars, peddle steel, piano and accordion, and two fiddles. All the guys are incredible musicians and in fact, Grammy Award-winning. We ordered food and Bernie backed up with chile after eating arse-burning hot chicken at lunchtime. The good news also is that they have my new favorite hard cider for sale (Diskin Cider).

I’m not sure Wendy entirely likes the Western Swing music that the Time Jumpers specialize in. She does know however how good they all are as musicians. As well as being ace players they are also very funny. What a great night we all had. Check out the band at:

https://www.thetimejumpers.com/