treme54's Blog

Saturday – April 19^th

Scary Bunny

‘Must people die with their music still locked up inside them’ – Benjamin Disraeli 

I woke up at 1 P.M. and had to try and get my mind and body functioning. I am too old to have 4A.M. nights but I never heed my own advice. I have to get over to Frenchman for my 2 P.M. appointment at Electric Ladyland. I am not looking forward to an hour of tattooing with a throbbing head and a churning stomach.

My tattoo artist is Kevin and he is a real nice guy. Originally from Miami he has been working at the studio for the last 3 months. I surprisingly feel all right once he starts and the hour goes by quickly.

My last meal was a long time ago (24 hours) and I need to get a feed. Mona’s Lebanese café is just a few doors down from the studio and I called in for lamb and humus.

I was back in the apartment by 4 to rest my weary body. A couch potato for the rest of the day

I managed to get up from the couch around 7:30 and walked around the corner to the Verti Mart to get a take-out of meatballs, mashed potato and green beans. The portions are so large that you are guaranteed two meals for the price of one.

So not a big day for blogging. As the Jethro Tull song goes ‘Too old to rock ‘n’ roll but too young to die’.

Friday – April 18^th

‘Music produces a kind of pleasure which human nature cannot do without’ – Confucius

I was up early at 8 and went and had breakfast at a little Café on Toulouse. It is a block from the Maison Dupuy, the hotel that Brain Wise’s tour group will stay at when they arrive next week.

I ordered a semi-healthy grilled cheese sandwich. My mistake, I should have known better as bacon is mandatory, you have to stipulate to ‘hold the pig’. No matter the sandwich came with a small bowl of fresh fruit salad so I did somewhat good.

I was going to wait until close to the end of my trip to have a shopping splurge. Oh well, what the heck. I got back to the apartment with 4 pair of jeans, new shoes and a cap.

I am sitting out on the balcony with William and Mickey when two ladies stopped to chat to William. They are from Baltimore and William lived in that city for a few years so he is able talk about various local hangouts. One of the women then said it is nice to talk to friendly gay men! Mickey and I looked at each other in surprise but said nothing. Guess when you live in an apartment at the Gay end of town and you have disco balls hanging from the rafters then an assumption of one’s sexual preferences could be incurred.

Around 3ish I went down to the marker for a bite to eat. I have a big night/morning ahead of me and I need some sustenance to get me through. There is a new food vendor in the market ‘Meals from the Heart Café’, a healthy take out option. They guarantee there is no pork on their menu. I ordered the Crab Cake Passion with salad and a bottle of coconut water. I may even come back for breakfast one morning for the oatmeal and walnuts special.

Back to the apartment to rest up until I go and meet up with Bob and Pat at 8P.M. Joy oh joy I have found the Major League Baseball channel on the T.V.

Around 7 I managed to get Skype fired up and got through to the girls at home. The time in Melbourne is 9AM Saturday morning. Wendy had to go and wake the girls up.

I started out for Iggy’s bar at 7:45, the meeting place for Bob and Pat. The walk takes me down Burgundy (this is pronounced not as it reads). The first time I took this walk I got lost and Bob was concerned when I was late arriving, that I may have gone into an area that was not safe. Well this time I know where I was going and I GOT LOST. A young girl and a guy on a bike must have seen I was confused and stopped to point me in the right direction. She said herself (in my defence) that this area of the Marigny known as the triangle is confusing even for locals. In fact I was only a very short distance from where I was supposed to be.

I got to the bar just after 8 and Bob and Pat greeted me like the friends we are. Even the bar-lady said ‘welcome back’. Iggy’s is a neighborhood bar and I am the only ‘out of Towner’. I even ran into a guy I met at he Spotted Cat last Monday. I was introduced to a number of the locals. One guy who has a bed and breakfast asked me if I knew of Peter Beattie (ex Queensland Premier) who he had shred a Bloody Mary with a few weeks back. Sitting on the bar is a split-screen T.V.  Monitor which has views of the bar, a little pool room and a street view. Another guy who Bob and Pat knew real well told me a few stories about the Iggy’s. He told a hilarious tale of the bar being held-up and the perpetrator went behind the bar and ripped out the T.V. monitor I mentioned so as his image could not be viewed. He is seen on footage walking across the street with the monitor under his arm! Another not so funny story was that there was a shooting out front of the bar a week before I got into town. He did add that I was not to worry as the people involved in the shooting had not been drinking at Iggy’s. Add to that the story of a fatal shooting last year out the front. This time it was after a local funeral where there had been an altercation. The guy in the fight had left the funeral and was drinking in the bar. The other guy in the fight waited until he left the bar and shot him dead on the street. As Kerri Simpson told me before I left, ‘New Orleans can be a bad-assed town and you should never let your guard down.’

We left the bar around 11:30 and headed to Deja Vu. This bar is in the Quarter on Dauphine. Again I have been here before. I am hoping that a barman by the name of Eric is working tonight. I promised him some vegemite last year and I have a tube to give him. Eric is working behind the bar and he is happy to see me and my gift. Bob told me he was at this bar a few weeks ago and there was an older guy sitting nearby not looking to good. Eric though we was about to throw-up and was getting ready to ask him to leave. He fell off his stool. An ambulance was called and he was carted off. News came through that he had died of a heart-attack. Hmm that is a bit scary. More beer was consumed and then we head to another bar called Jimmy White’s a bar that has gone down in history as the only bar that never closed during and after Hurricane Katrina. Wesley is behind the jump and says ‘welcome back Aussie’ by this time I am getting a little wobbly. At 2:45 I wrote (scrawled) in my journal ‘I am now officially pissed’. Bob and Wesley attested to the fact by signing the said entry. I think I got back to the apartment around 4A.M. I know I had a great time catching up with good friends. But as to most of the details. Let me say they are a little sketchy.

Thursday – April 17^th

‘Music touches us emotionally, where words alone can’t.’ – Johnny Depp

My morning routine is set now. Arise sometime between 9 and 10, read my emails and check out the news on-line via the Age while watching the world go by.

Nothing to eat until lunch time. The Matassa’s family Deli has operated on Dauphine St since 1924. John Matassa emigrated from Sicily in 1906. There one son (Cosimo) went on to found one of the most iconic recording studios in New Orleans. Sadly that building is now a laundromat (Rampart St) with only a plaque on the wall to remind people who recorded there. Lucky for me is the Deli is just around the corner from my apartment. It is a throw- back to the past. Tiny little aisles that should have one-way signs as two people canot be in the one spot at the same time. You can get all your grocery needs and liquor plus there is a service bar where you can order hot cooked food. The Deli is still run by the Matassa family. I opted for one of their signature sandwiches the Mufaletta. Olive salad, genoa salami, chisesi ham, mortadella, mozzarella, and provolone cheeses on fresh Italian bread. The half sandwich costs $8.95 and the full sandwich $13.95. When I say sandwich I mean a round bun the size of a small pizza and as thick as two meat pies on top of each other. I ordered a half and only managed to be able to eat a half of a half.

I was eating my lunch on the balcony but alas had to retreat inside as an annoying drizzle has set in. I heard Mr. Okra and his battered up tray van coming down the street. Mr Okra sells vegetables and fruit to the people of the street. You can hear him for blocks singing through the loud speaker. ‘I got green beans, I got bananas, and I got okra. You could say that the likes of Mr. Okra may never be seen/heard again. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qz2K8YPSMy8

I had a Nanna nap in the afternoon and was up and at ‘em at 4 PM. I am heading off to Armstrong Park for the start of the free Thursday night music sessions. Yep I am here at the right time of year all right.

I got to Armstrong Park to be greeted by the ‘One Sound Brass Band’ being ably assisted with the dance moves of the Sudan Social Aid and Pleasure Club. It is true when they say ‘White men can’t dance’. Social and Aid clubs of which there are many in New Orleans came about through the poverty of the black population. People contributed a small weekly amount of their income to their club of choice. This then guaranteed a dignified funeral including a horse and mourning carriage and a brass band. Solemn dirge like music would be played on the way to the cemetery and then on the way back the music would be joyful and be a celebration of the deceased’s life. Mourners and anybody that wanted could join in. Hence the name second-line.

Armstrong Park is situated across Nth Rampart St which is the boundary of the French Quarter. It is situated in the historic Treme district. And only a ten minute walk. Within its bound is the area known as Congo Square where history tells us that the black slaves were allowed to gather and dance on Sundays. The only city in the U.S. that allowed black slaves to participate in traditional drumming and dancing. Of course we all should be thankful for this as out of that music came the likes of Jazz and Blues.

I am here to see Glen David Andrews (a cousin of Trombone Shorty). Glen David as a singer and trombone player extraordinaire and he has the knack of involving all audience members in his performance. The spring and summer sessions are put on by the community group ‘ The People United for Armstrong Park’. There is also market stalls and food stalls. I had a double up, starting with a bowl of Gumbo and some fried chicken. When you eat real Southern Fried chicken it is very hard to ever again  eat from Kentucky Fried.  I was strong though as I did not buy a serve of deep fried Oriole cookies (chocolate biscuits) although they were a steal at 6 for $5!

First on the bill tonight is an old school rapper named Weebie. Not my type of music but the crowd really got into it.

Glenn David Andrews hit the stage as he always does with all cylinders firing. He sang a number of tunes from his new album ‘Redemption’ as well as some of his classic covers. You are always guaranteed a god time at a GDA show. Like Anders Osborne, Glen has turned his life around in the last 18 months and he is very proud to let people know that you can pick yourself up when and if you want to. The skies have been grey all day and the rain is tumbling down. The crowd don’t care about getting wet, we are partying in the rain and when Glen started singing the Mahalia Jackson classic ‘Didn’t It Rain’ the handclapping got even louder.

Wednesday – April 16th

 ‘I like beautiful melodies, that tell me terrible things’ – Tom Waites

Well the sun is out today but there is still a chill in the air. Not sure when the weather is going to turn into a normal New Orleans spring. They are still getting snow in places up north.

Mickey was telling me about his movie adventure. He has had a number of bit parts in a few horror movies. This time he has a small role in the new Will Farrell movie being filmed in New Orleans at the moment. Mickey was in a scene being filmed last Monday at the old Gretna jail. The scene involves him sharing a cell with Will and getting pushed around by the guards. He told me that Will is a nice guy and he takes the time to talk to the extras unlike a lot of other ‘stars’.

I went back to the Magnolia Grill for breakfast. A young guy looked after my order and he spoke with me for a good 10 minutes. His name is Anthony and he is working at the grill during spring break. He attends LSU (Louisiana State University). Nice young man, he told me that I have to come to at least one Mardi Gras. He even wrote a note in my journal ‘I have ordered you to come to Mardi Gras’! Signed – Anthony. Not sure if that will get me another leave pass but you never know.

I went and picked up some postcards to send back home. If you don’t get one it must have went astray in the mail.

It has turned into a real nice sunny afternoon and I passed away a few hours’ people watching from my balcony. I wish I had a dollar for every person who stops and takes a photo of the apartment. It must have something to do with all the disco balls hanging from the rafters. William came back from walking the dogs. He told me that if I even wanted a semi-permanent place to live in New Orleans then he would happily do a deal for me with regards to the apartment I stay in.

The free music at Lafayette Square starts at 5 P.M., I am a little hungry so it being only 4 P.M. I called into Felix’s Oyster Bar off Bourbon. I know this is a very popular place to eat oysters because I have walked past Felix’s at night and there is always a line of people on the sidewalk waiting to get in. I was able to get a place at the bar not far from where the oysters where being freshly shucked. I ordered a dozen char-grilled oysters and a voodoo pale-ale. The oysters were excellent, plump and larger than those we get back home. No needs to worry about being attacked by any vampires that frequent the Quarter tonight as I thing I have just eaten 6 cloves of garlic.

Billy Iuso’s band is just firing up as I meet up with Stew and Carol. I bought two of Billy’s albums home with me last year. I recognized a few pf the punters, a man with an Ian Fraser moustache dyed bright green (may suggest that to Ian), the old free hugs man. He is at must concerts around town. I spoke to him last year, he is well into his 80’s. Dressed in shorts and his trademark Hawaiian shirt and always with bright coloured socks (of a different colour). He has a sign on his shirt ‘free hugs’ and he always seems to be dancing with pretty ladies. Rob Steinberg (Treme actor) said g’day as well as the festival staff. Anders Osborne is also back stage and I got a photo with him. Andres has a very interesting story. He came to New Orleans form Sweden many years ago and has never left. He is now one of ‘awlins finest guitarists/singers/songwriters and he is always on the Jazz Fest bill. He has fought some demons and come through in one piece. As I have read many times about New Orleans, all is here for the taking (and has been since the 1700’s) and it is easy to go along for the ride either with drugs, alcohol, debauchery or whatever else may take your fancy. Anders is one of the strong ones who has got his life back on track.

Also back stage is a lady I have seen many times up on stage interviewing guest and introducing artists. She works for the local Fox T.V. network and shares the stage every Wednesday night with the Saints football cheer leaders and an ex Saints football player. The Saints are the major sponsors of the concert series. I told her I was on my fourth visit to the Crescent City. Anyway next thing I know she is doing her mid bracket spiel when I hear her telling the crowd that she wanted to welcome Rob from Australia to New Orleans and the Saints footballer is calling out ‘mate, can you give us a who dat in an Australian accent’?  The crowd cheered. Stew and Carol both came over to me laughing and Stew said ‘what the fuck just happened, how come you are getting named from the stage’! As the old saying goes ‘it’s who you know’. Over to you Mr. Smith!

The Honey Island Swamp Band are the main act for the night. Although I only saw them a few days ago at French Quarter Fest I am very pleased to see them again. Anders got up for a tune as well

I went and had dinner with Stew and Carol after the show and then went back to their home for a cup of tea and a catch up. Stew dropped me back at my apartment around 11 and another great night was enjoyed in ‘awlins

Tuesday – April 15^th

We all know that Real Estate Agents tell fibs!

‘The only truth is music’ – Jack Kerouac

I left the apartment around 9:30 and immediately went back for my Stax jacket. I can’t believe it. Mid April and it is only 11 degrees! It is oh so cold. Beanies, scarves, jackets and gloves that’s what the locals are wearing. The poor tourists in the mule buggies are draped in blankets. It is easy to spot the unprepared visitors in shorts and t-shirts shivering like dogs shitting razor blades. The wind is blowing hard and is bitterly cold.

None the less I headed down to the river-front promenade to once again take in the view of the mighty Mississippi. I never get tired of watching the barges being pushed by the tugs, the container ships turning nearly at right angles as they follow the river course. Today the barges are plowing into the wind and the waves are breaking over their bows as if they were out in the middle of the ocean. The promenade is nearly devoid of walkers but I love it just the same.

I wandered down Canal and spotted a café that I had not seen before. It is called Ruby Slipper. I ordered the Spanish omelet. Spicy chorizo sausage, red onions, bell peppers, pepper jack cheese, red roasted peppers with a side of potato. Coffee and toast. All for the princely sum of $13.44. As with most places in this part of the woods the coffee is bottomless. I was right is saying that this is a new café, the waiter confirmed that it has only been open 3 months. I will come back as it is one of the better breakfasts that I have had in my 4 visits. I must tell Brian Wise. The waiter asked me where I was from and you know the answer. He said I thought so but I saw you writing in your journal and it sure does not look like English! What can I say, most people tell me that I write like a Doctor. As I leave the café I laughed at the sign above the doorway – Eggs-It-HereI

I browsed a few of the clothing stores. So many good things to buy but I am on a tight budget and I will wait until near the end of my trip to see if I can afford a splurge. It was good to walk around and reacquaint myself with the streets. Although the temperature is brisk it suits me fine and I much prefer it to the high humidity that is just around the corner. I have been told that a storm will hit some time in the next couple of weeks and the humidity will roll-in and stay for the rest of spring and summer.

I spoke to Stew on the phone and we will meet up again tomorrow at the music in the park series (Lafayette Square) and then I will go back with Stew and Carol to have dinner at their home. Stew told me that he has tried the vegemite I bought over for him describing it as ‘tasty’. I have also been in touch with Bob Gentilly Jnr. and I will meet up with Bob and Pat on Good Friday night. I know I will be in for a fun night of music and amber and will most likely have one big hangover come Saturday morning.

I called into the Louisiana Music Factory on the way to the Spotted Cat Music Club. You may be shocked to read that I did not buy and C.D’s although I have noted a few that will make my suitcase on my trip home.

The Spotted Cat is one of 6 or so little music clubs on Frenchman Street. Frenchman starts just outside the French Quarter and is only a 5 minute walk from my place. It is a world apart from the music venues on Bourbon who tend to cater for a drunken tourist audience wanting to hear classic rock. Having said that you can still find some establishments on Bourbon that have some music taste. Frenchman Street is more of a local’s hangout with the some of the more informed music tourists also coming out of the Quarter to get their fix. Most of the clubs would only hold 100-150 people.

The Spotted Cat is a little music bar that puts on great music. No cover charge but there is a stipulation noted on the door that you have to purchase at least one drink. I easily qualify to stay. I have come early to get a front seat at the bar in front of the band stand. Andy Forrest is playing acoustic blues and he is not bad at all. I grabbed a seat and the guy next to me introduced himself and his girlfriend. He is not much taller than me but he is built like a brick shit-house. They come from Edmonton, Canada and he is the General Manager of an Auto shop that pimps up cars and trucks. They are very friendly and the next thing you know I am in a shout with them.

 I am here to see Meschiya Lake & the Little Big Horns. We saw Meschiya a few times last year and she has a magnificent voice. Her band are old school 20’s Jazz. The kind I like. Meschiya is very pretty and is covered in tattoos. Even her eyebrows are tattooed. She would only be in her late 20’s and she and her band are keeping the tradition of this form of music alive and viable to a new audience. I also met up with a couple from Chicago who were interested to hear a little about Australia. My new drinking buddy has had a fair amount to drink and someone in the crowd has upset him. I get the feeling that Canadians and Americans are not the best of friends. At one stage he was ready to take on three f****n Yankees but my diplomacy skills came to the fore and we turned the conversation around.

I chatted to Meschiya between sets. I told her how I had been interviewed by Helen Jennings of PBS last year. Helen asked about my trip and what artist had taken my fancy and that I got to pick some tunes for airplay. Helen was very taken with Meschiya’s C.D. and the phone line up with Melbournians ringing through to get details of the album. Meschiya seemed mighty pleased and she told me that she has always wanted to come to Oz. She gave me her personal contact details and I will contact Helen to see if she wants to do a phone interview.

I called in to Electric Ladyland after leaving the club. I got my tattoo at this parlour last year. My tattoo artist has left town so I could not show him how the ink looks a year later.

Tea was from a great pizza place called the Louisiana Pizza Kitchen. No Aussies on this menu.

Monday – 14^th April

“Storms come, and are so personal, they seem to know your address and have the key to your house.”  – Reverend Jesse Jackson

Woke up pretty tired after way too much fun over the last 4 days. This will have to be a slow day for me. The weather is changing with high humidity and a heavy storm brewing for later in the afternoon.

My main mission this morning is to head down to the Island of Salvation Botanica to visit Sallie Anne Glassman who is a highly regarded New Orleans Mambo (Voodoo Doctor). Our own Kerri Simpson is very close friends with Sallie and Kerri has given me a copy of her incredible new C.D. 4 A.M. to present to Sallie as a gift. Last year when I was in town I had a crystal ball reading as well as a Gris Gris bag made for me by Sallie. It is only a 15 minute walk from where I am staying and I can cut through Frenchman St to get there. I will fill you in on Frenchman St. in my next post. Alas when I got there I was told that Sallie was out of town for a couple of weeks. I will still be in ‘awlins when she gets back so I will catch up then.

I went back to Frenchman and decided to call into the Louisiana Music Factory. LMF is just about the best record store on the planet. It has only just relocated to Frenchman and I will be hard pressed not to spend many a dollar there. Alas it was not opening for another half hour.

It is getting close to 11 and I have not yet had breakfast. I know of a cheap place to eat near the French Market. The Magnolia Grill has good food and I can relax and write down a few notes. I am not overly hungry and I guess my body clock is still all astray. I opted for pancakes with bacon and maple syrup washed down with a Barg’s Root Beer. The waiter is a cool guy and he said he recognized me from last year. It is good to feel like a local although he maybe tells that to everyone?

I heard my name being called and looked up to see my neighbour having breakfast with his young daughter. Maybe I am a local!

I wondered off after eating to head back to the apartment and I ran into one of the local characters who goes by the name of Anzie. Last year when Wendy was in town we had a chat about all sorts of things. He is a 60 something hippie and he sounds like a throw- back to Woodstock. In fact last year he told us all about his hilarious adventures at the said music festival. There were a group of tourists eating gumbo and having their tour guide tell them about this delicious New Orleans staple. I overheard the tour guide ask the group if any of them knew what file was? I waited a few minutes as there was no answer forthcoming. I put up my hand and the tour guide said ‘yes sir, what is your answer’. I said file comes from the Sassafras tree. The tourists who were by the way American were a little stunned when I answered correctly in a strange accent. I’m the man!

I gave up with the Internet connection back at the apartment and went to the Radio Shack on Canal and purchased a mobile Wi-Fi. The store person was very good as she set it up for me. It works a treat. It is 4G that is real 4G not like the Telstra shit you get back home that says it is 4G but operates all the time at 3G. You sure notice a difference with the speed.

As I started typing up the blog an almighty crack of thunder heralded the start of a very heavy storm. Time was around 3P.M. and the rain continued through for the next 6 hours. Thunder and lightning incessantly. If ya’ll are a first time visitor to New Orleans and one of these storms rolls in then you think you may think you are an extra in Russell Crow’s Noah but the locals just take it in their stride. I was going to have a quiet night anyway. At least I had some left over Dirty Rice in the fridge from last night’s tea. Dirty rice. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dirty_rice

Sunday – April 13^th.

 ^{Little Freddie King}

 ^‘We should consider every day lost on which we have not danced at least once’ – Friedrich Nietzche

It is our wedding anniversary today. I left a present with Kate to give to Wendy. Kate and Wendy are in Canberra visiting my cousin Brain and his lovely wife Judith. Brian and Judith are very generous and giving people and we are close friends as much as being relatives. I know that the girls will be well looked after. Cara has had to stay home as she is working at Baker’s Delight.

I was up early even though I found sleep hard to come by last night. The temperature is predicted to be at a maximum of 29 degrees Celsius with a strong breeze.

I got down the festival site around 10:30 and grabbed some food from Mona’s food stall. I have eaten at their Lebanese restaurant on Frenchman Street and the food is very good. In fact if you fancy any sort of lamb to eat then the few Lebanese places around town are your best chance. There is not a lot of lamb eaten down south apart from Easter celebrations.

I got to the Abita Stage just as the music started. I really do feel like part of the stage crew now as everyone says to me ‘morning baby, where yat’

Lillian Boutté and Gumbo Zaire are just commencing their set and they have Detroit Brooks on guitar so I know I am going to enjoy the show. Real nice way to start the morning music wise with some New Orleans Jazz and it being a Sunday a little Gospel on the side. It is only just past 11 and the crowd are already clapping and dancing. I am not a religious person but I do enjoy Gospel Music. It moves your soul. I may need more than a few Gospel tunes though to save me from the City of Sin.

Next up are the 9 piece Bucktown Allstars with guest dancer Miss Joyce (who happens to be 87 years old). The Allstars are well known to me from my last visit. This time last year Wendy was up on stage with them taking photos. A couple of the band recognized me and came over to welcome me back. They hit the stage running and the next 75 minutes is not stop classic New Orleans R’n’B’. The crowd was asked to stick out their tongues to see if they had been drinking the classic ‘awlins fire water from Paddy O’Brien’s known as the Hurricane. A drink guaranteed to knock your socks off and turn your tongue bright red. I know first- hand that the drink can be potent and that is why I do not wear socks to the festival.

I went and got some crawfish bread as it has been highly recommended. For those not accustomed to the local food a crawfish is similar in some ways to our yabbies. They are farmed six months of the year and then the fields are used to grow rice for the next six months. There are many ways to eat crawfish and I am lucky to be here during the season of suckin’ dem heads. The bread is like a big fat pastie stuffed with crawfish and spice and the whole thing is then deep fried. Delicious.

Big Chief Donald Harrison Jnr is up next. His lineage goes back generations and it is worth checking out a little history at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Donald_Harrison the chief’s father was also a Big Chief and I read a fascinating book written about him. If you have any interest in the history of black Mardi Gras Indians then it is worth sourcing the book Big Chief Harrison and the Mardi Gras Indians Author Al Kennedy. I know it is available through Amazon. New Orleans and its music goes back generation after generation. It is handed down to keep the flame burning. A lot of well known and established musicians start foundations to get kids off the street and learn how to play music as well as to understand their heritage. Lillian Boutté who opened the first set had a very young and nervous girl up singing some harmony. Donald Harrison has founded the Tipitina Foundation which educates young musicians both black and white. Donald got 6 of these young boys up on stage to play with him. A 13 year old drummer, a 13 year old piano player and a 15 year old trumpeter. The other boys were much older at 16. They accompanied Donald on two songs and were excellent. Donald got his own band back up (Detroit Brooks was sitting in again on guitar) as well as four elaborately dressed Mardi Gras Indians and they rounded off the set with classic Indians songs including a favourite ‘Hey Pocky Way’. This song has been recorded by many band including the Meters, the Grateful Dead & the Neville Brothers and is a staple of New Orleans Mardi Gras. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEtXT9w9AYU

While all that was happening Stew introduced me to Little Freddie King. I was indeed excited to meet the man. I have seen him at Jazz Fest every time I have come over. He is the king of the slow groove boogie and has to be the snappiest dresser in town. I have a photo of Freddie to be signed. He was delighted with Wendy’s photo and his drummer/manager so liked it that he has asked for a copy to be sent to him. If they use the photo in an official capacity then Wendy will get a credit. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Little_Freddie_King

The sun has slipped behind the high rise Sheraton Hotel and the heat of the day disappears far quicker here than home.

Only one band to go and that is ‘Raw Oyster Cult’ which have three original members of the classic New Orleans band the Radiators. The Radiators were the equivalent of a southern Grateful Dead and you can see many older hippie types wearing cult t-shirts. Dave Malone is the lead singer/guitarist and his is the last photo I have to get signed. He is happy to do so adding ‘Man, not even a mother would love that face’. I did not hang around for their set as the last four days of sun, standing, drinking (but not a lot) and eating have knackered me.

Saturday – April 12^th

Irene Sage

‘Music gives a soul to the universe, wings to the mind, flight to the imagination and life to everything’. – Plato

There was a bit of a disturbance last night in front of my apartment at around 4:30 A.M. I was awoken by loud shouting and swearing but I went back to sleep pretty quickly. When I went to leave this morning my neighbour and Mickey were talking on our balcony about the fracas. There is a security camera on the front of the apartment and Mickey can watch the area out front including his car parked on the street. He said that he was thinking of getting dressed and coming out to see what the fight was all about. My neighbour said that might not have been a good idea as you might have got drawn into the trouble, ‘I don’t think so’, said Mickey. ‘I would have had my shotgun with me’. That makes me feel nice and safe having my own armed security guard.

I got down to the Abita stage just as the Irene Sage band were starting their second song of the bracket. I have seen Irene a number of times both as the front-lady of her own band and as a back-up singer in a couple of other local bands. She is good, damn good and very sexy to boot. For more information go to www.irenesageband.com I have just downloaded my photos for the day and was eagerly awaiting to see what the photo of Irene and myself looked like, something spooky as happened as I can’t find it.

While Irene was performing I was chatting to Joey Joia who is A New Orleans policeman (22 years’ service). He is a very friendly guy and he was happy to give me some information from a law enforcement perspective of New Orleans. What he said certainly was not through rose coloured glasses. He said in some ways Katrina was a cleansing storm as a lot of the gang members moved to different location around the country. In some areas of New Orleans the police classed some areas as was zones and he said it was not even safe to drive through those areas. Of course he said that the many, many deaths were heart breaking. He also asked a lot of questions about back home. He was interested in our political system, education, welfare and law and order. He told me a lot of eye-opening information about Hurricane Katrina and it was very confronting. I learned more about this city in the 4 hours I spent back-stage with Joey than I have by reading news articles from the local newspaper the Times Picayune (means small Spanish coin). Joey said he had a friend that lives in Freemantle who wants him to go visit. Joey is not very keen as he has read about our White Pointers. Because I spent close up time with Joey I was able to view the belt he wore. It made Batman’s utility belt look innocuous. Gun, taser, truncheon, handcuffs, mace, walkie talkie and a few other things I was unsure of. We then spoke about the football back home. At first Joey thought I was talking about rugby. I explained further and then he cottoned on. ‘Oh yeah, those crazy mother f*****s who tackle and wear no padding.

Bruce ‘Sunpine’ Barnes is back stage in his Rangers uniform. He works at the Old Mint as well as being a world class performer. He has just spent 2 months on tour with Paul Simon. I knew Sunpie from seeing him around town last year and he remembered me and Wendy as well. There is a very large African American taking photos near me. He asks ‘were you from baby’. Even the Joey the policeman called me baby on a number of occasions. No I have not turned, it is just that no matter what gender or age you are, over here you are ‘baby. ’I told him I was from down under and he has invited me to his camera club.

I have another 3 photos of Wendy’s to get signed. Brother Tyrone Powell, Walter ‘Wolfman’ Washington, and the Dixie Cups (who are celebrating 50 years in the music business). Stew took me down to the artist’s tent to meet the girls of the Dixie Cups. They were very taken with the photo I had and they all graciously signed it. They also want me to send them a copy. I did explain that I did not take the shot but it must have been misinterpreted with my accent. The incredible outcome of that is that they have asked me to be on stage with them to take photos. I spent their entire set up on the major stage of the French Quarter Music Festival like a professional snapper! I have not the heart to tell them that what I know about my Cannon camera was learned from the ‘Idiots Guide to the Cannon EOS Rebel’. Have you ever read any of those Idiot Books? They are not so easy to understand!

After that excitement I headed to the food area to get some lunch. I spoke to a guy about my age seated at one of the tables. He grew up deep in Cajun country (Lafayette). He was in the Air Force for 20 years through the 70’s and 80’s and spent some time based in Darwin. He reminisced about being taken out to herd kangaroos.

Another artist on my list of must see is Tommy Malone who also happens to be the lead-singer of the seminal New Orleans band the Subdudes. He ends up standing next to me and he started chatting. Most locals are very friendly and go out of their way to strike up a conversation. He told me hi is very anxious to get to Australia and he has taken one of my cards. It just keep getting better as I am now being passed free beer from the V.I.P sponsors area.

Tommy’s band played a memorable set and he finished up with one of Phoebe Giles favourite songs (and mine for that matter) ‘I’ve Got All the Time In the World’.

The sun has just dropped below the CBD buildings and it is surprising on how quickly the temperature cools off. I walked the 10 minutes back to my apartment a very satisfied man with all the day’s events.

Friday April 11^th

So close, but so far away!

‘If I were not a physicist, I would probably be a musician, I often think in music. I live my daydreams in music. I see my life in terms of music’ – Albert Einstein

The Internet connection has not been great hence the delay in the posts. First thing this morning I was able to upload two posts.

On the way down to the second day of the festival I ran into a parade heading down St. Anne St. to Jackson Square. New Orleans loves a parade and any reason to put one on is acceptable. The parade had brass bands, miniature ponies, knights on horseback and people dressed in all sorts of costumes sashaying in that unmistakable New Orleans dance step. Throw beads and smiles were the order of the day.

I finally picked up a local phone which costs next to nothing and includes $40 of texts and calls which will see me through the time I am here. I need to be able to call the friends I have here in town to see what bar I am supposed to be at on any given day.

Breakfast today (11:30) was from the Desire Oyster Inn food stall. Fried Oyster Rockefeller with penne pasta and hot garlic sauce. Now that should cleanse the system. I think I am becoming immune to hot sauce!

The sun has just broken through and I can feel the heat on the back of my neck. I must remember to put on some sun-screen. I missed applying the sun-screen to my ears yesterday and my right ear looks like a slice of red tomato.

The first band today at the Abita Stage is called Sweet Crude, they are pretty good, quirky and a lot of fun.

My main aim today was to see the Honey Island Swamp Band. I know that some of you reading this blog are fans of this New Orleans group. I would describe them as Louisiana Southern Rock. They are a mighty fine band and I have most of their albums. It is great being at the side of stage as I can get to talk to the musicians before they go on to play. I had a chat with Aaron Wilkinson the lead-singer and he gave me his email address. He is real keen to get to Australia and I told him about our club. Aaron asked me to keep in touch he even gave me a couple of C.D’s to spread the word back home.

It is real cool being back stage, the Production Crew have all said hello and I fell like one of the gang.

One of the people I befriended last year was Jimmy Carpenter an incredible saxophone man. Jimmy plays with many bands around town and I was thrilled when he came up to say hello and welcome me back to New Orleans. Jimmy is playing with the Honey Island. I got to enjoy another mighty fine set of music.

I went and lined up for a beer and a guy in front of me asked if I was a Chicago Cubs fan (I was wearing a Cubs cap). He was surprised to hear my accent and I explained why indeed I was wearing the cap. My brother Herbie and I attended a game in Chicago in 2012 the Cubs v the White Sox. He was pretty impressed as he was also a Cubs fan. We had a good chat about baseball and the state of the game in Australia.

Kermit Ruffins and band are next on stage. Stew got Kermit and his daughter to sign one of Wendy’s magnificent photos. I have taken with me about 20 blown up prints of shots Wendy took in 2103 .

The crowd is starting to get to the enormous stage. Next up is Dr. John and the Nite Tripper. I have been hanging out for this. Fancy being side of stage for the good Doctor. He has to walk past me to get on stage. Well was I disappointed or what. Stew came up and apologized and told me that everyone needed to leave the area, Dr. John is a very demanding and private man and we all had to clear the side of stage. Stew said go and get in the photography area, which I did. We had about 30 minutes to wait. I could hear a lot of the press photographers talking about us only being able to stay for three songs before leaving. That is ok as I am dead centre of his piano. Stew came down the line and reiterated we could only stay for three songs. O.K. Then with about 15 minutes to go all the V.I.P guest were told to leave as well as all us ‘professional’ photographers. Many of the press guys around me were none too happy. Apparently there would only be three sanctioned photographers allowed. Well that is a bummer as now I have no chance of getting even remotely close to the stage. Stuff Dr. John I cracked the shits and went over to the Zydeco stage to listen to Chubby Carrier.

Even though I was disappointed in not getting to see Dr. John I still had a fantastic day.

I wandered home and picked up a take-out (take-away) of meat loaf, mashed potato and beans. I also bought some salt as there was none back at the apartment. As with all things you buy food wise in New Orleans the salt container was super- sized. The smallest salt container I could buy was a 737 gram monster. I guarantee it will still be half full when we make the trip back next year. The good thing is that it only cost $1.39

Now as I said I am running a day behind, I have already lived Saturday and I can tell you it has been the most exciting and enjoyable day I have had in the Crescent City. You will have to wait 24 hours for the next post.

P.S. Go the Bulldogs

Thursday – April 10^th

Walter ‘Wolfman’ Washinton & Groupie

‘Those who dance are considered insane by those who can’t hear the music’ – George Carlin

I was up at 9:30 feeling a little dusty. We are in for another sunny day with the temperature to be around 24 degrees

One of Wendy and my favorite places for breakfast last year was Envies on Decatur St. It is a bit out of the way for the tourists and you see a lot more locals eating there. Bruce ‘Sunpie’ Barnes called in for a coffee. Wendy took some great shots of Bruce at a performance at the Old Mint. I just read in one of the local papers that he has been on tour for the last two months with Paul Simon. I opted for the French toast and an iced coffee.

I got down to the start of the French Quarter Festival and Stew gave me a wrist band that gets me into side of stage. The first day of the festival is called locals day and it is the most comfortable crowd wise. The next three days will see huge crowds. The festival is into its 31^st year and is the biggest free music festival in the United States. The musicians who are on the bill are all locals. The festivals site is set throughout the French Quarter. I am at the Abita stage which is the largest stage and tends to attract most of the headline acts. The pass that Stew has kindly given me also allows me access to the professional photographer’s area front of stage. I will be the only snapper that has set the dial of his camera to automatic. The pressure will be on to get some good shots.

‘I have the body of a God, unfortunately it’s Buddha’

I just had a chat to Walter ‘Wolfman’ Washington. Walter is a 72 year old living New Orleans legend who has played guitar with the likes of Ernie K Doe. He is a true gentleman and is always dressed immaculately. He told me that he is trying to get a tour over to Australia late this year. Let’s hope we can get him to Way Out West. He is keen

Lunch was from the Bubba Gump food stand. Bubba Gump shrimp and two shrimp cakes. Look out gout here I come again.

Had a chat to the drummer of the Bucktown Allstars. They will be playing on the last day of the fest. Wendy was up on stage with them last year taking photos for them to use on their Facebook page. He remembered us both. This must be the only festival in the world where as a back-drop you can see a 100 year old paddle steamer (the Natchez) plow down the mighty Mississippi.

The Soul Queen of New Orleans Ms. Irma Thomas performed superbly as could be expected. She is also in her 70’s but once she is on stage the years just melt away. Her voice is as powerful as ever. She is loved by the people of New Orleans and she never disappoints them. Songs included in her set were her classic ‘You Can Have My Husband, But Please Don’t Mess with My Man’, ‘Hip Shaking Momma’, ‘Proud Mary’ and a spine tingling version of ‘Forever Young’.

Here is a turn up. A lady behind the barricade has asked to take a photo of me. She has never met an Australian before. I celebrated with my first Abita Amber at 3:30

Next up was a younger R’n’B performer P J Morton who was nominated for a Grammy this year. He grew on me and by the end of his set I must say that I enjoyed his performance. The girls at work will be proud of me listening to some modern black R’n’B.

I hung around for the last band of the day Bonerama. The band are darlings of New Orleans and play a funked up set of great music.