treme54's Blog

Ain’t no heaven, say there ain’t no burnin’ hell Where I’m goin’ when I die can’t nobody tell. —Son House, “My Black Mama, Part One,” 1930

Everyone has had a good night’s sleep and we are not jet-lagged. We head out to have a look at the Joshua Tree township. We knew that it did not have a lot of attractions when we booked our stay, but it is a great launching place for today’s tour and for starting tomorrow’s long road trip. We found a happening coffee shop and made the order. Hoff’s order confused the young girl as he asked her for an extra shot, she said sir the coffee you ordered already has four shots! It is a little chilly this morning, but the sky is a bright blue. We did not realize that there was a Saturday fresh food market rocking the town every weekend. I got a punnet of the biggest strawberries I have ever seen. Joshua Tree Town has a bit of a hippy feel to it. Fantastic bookshop and Visitor’s Center (American spelling I am going to stick with that spelling to keep you in the mood). I had a nice email from my N’awlins buddy Jeff who has offered to pick us up from the airport, so I had to let him know we were driving over from Muscle Shoals, Alabama.

There is a guy selling all types of minerals, rocks, gems, and meteorites. He proudly showed us his most expensive item for sale – a Lightning Ridge Opal for $ 4000 USD.

We hit the road again going back to Palm Desert which is about an hour’s drive. From here we will hitch up with the Tour Company that is taking us on a four-wheel drive through the Joshua Tree National Park. Palm Desert is the home of many retirees and has a number of large, gated communities.

Bernie is driving like a local now and has even started overtaking vehicles. We sure miss our local radio RRR and PBS as the commercial radio that is available is terrible.

The countryside is sensational, desert, yuccas, and mountains still snow-capped.

On the first part of the journey
I was looking at all the life
There were plants and birds and rocks and things
There was sand and hills and rings

The first thing I met was a fly with a buzz
And the sky with no clouds
The heat was hot and the ground was dry
But the air was full of sound

I’ve been through the desert on a horse with no name
It felt good to be out of the rain
In the desert you can’t remember your name
‘Cause there ain’t no one for to give you no pain
La la la la la la…

Oops, we just worked out we are going the wrong way! The speed limit is 55 miles P/H and is aircraft enforced whatever that means. The Joshua Trees are blooming this time of year (early Spring) and so are the wildflowers. Bernie has located a USB stick he prepared, and we are blasting Steely Dan, the Doors, the Eagles, and Neil Young.

It is 11:50 and we have just hit the turn-off to Palm Desert. Other road turn-offs are Frank Sinatra Drive, Gene Autry Trail, and Bob Hope Drive. We need a quick lunch before the tour starts at 12:45. Pulled into JT’s Diner. My choice was pork chops and eggs with a side of potatoes, and I somehow (unbeknown) had a side of Pancakes.

We scoffed the food down and made the pickup point only 2 minutes late.

We are introduced to Will who will be our Tour Guide. The first thing we do is use their QR code to accept the Terms and Conditions and take a selfie of ourselves to upload to complete the sign-in. I think the photo is needed to confirm any fatalities as this is going to be a hairy ride.

Will asked if we preferred the enclosed off-road vehicle he was in or if we would prefer an open type of safari off-road 4-wheel drive. We all agreed on the open back. It was just a short trip back to the company’s depot to swap vehicles over. Will is a very friendly guy, big and strong looking. He told us a fair bit about himself. He is married to a French lady; he also has a Native American background. Had a few different jobs over the years. A prison corrections officer and a parole officer are just two. He is now semi-retired and drives for the tour company on weekends.

Will explains that the tour is going to take us through two different desert ecosystems. First, we will go through the Sonora Desert and then through to the Mojave Desert. To get to the four-wheel drive entrance we drove on a sealed road for about 20 minutes. Will is already pointing out unique desert flora. He also directs our attention to what is known as the San Andreas fault (824 miles long) which runs all the way to San Francisco, in truth it is two plates that are moving against each other, the Pacific Plate and the Atlantic Plate. Another big earthquake will occur and is in fact more than 100 years overdue! Way off in the distance, we can see a bluish tinge named the Salton Sea, the largest free-standing area of water in California. As can be gathered by its name it is a Salt Lake. Also visible are patches of greenery in some of the desert areas we will be travelling through. The whole valley was covered in water some time back and now the sunken water bubbles through splits in the rocks creating a little oasis that supports the Californian Palm.

We enter the off-road track from the sealed Berdoo Canyon Road which is suitable for 4-wheel drives with high clearance. Will tells us that we are going to get pretty shaken up. I am riding up front and Wendy, Bernie, and Hoff are strapped in the open back. Not long after going off-road, Will tells us not to be alarmed if we see a lot of people brandishing firearms (guns and rifles). Families and friends come out and set up some shade and targets and fire away at their will. Will said to make sure we wave to everyone to be on the safe side!

We are hoping to see some of the local critters. Mountain Lions are still around the area. We have already spotted (well Will did) a Red Tail Hawk being buzzed by a Raven. Ravens, we are told are among the smartest birds in the world.

We are now entering the Joshua Tree National Park. Joshua Trees are in reality not a tree but belong to the Yucca family. They can live up to 300 years and grow as tall as a medium-sized tree, there is a fascinating history of how they were named. To save me typing the full story here is a link to read at your leisure Joshua Trees – Joshua Tree National Park (U.S. National Park Service) (nps.gov)

Will was not kidding when he said it was going to be a bumpy ride. The guys in the back are hanging on for dear life. The road in some areas is more rock than the road. In some parts, the road is enclosed with huge rock formations on either side. We are doing the tour at the right time as many of the various wildflowers and cacti are blooming, we stop off at an old mountain lion den and are told to look out for Nelson Big Horn sheep which make a nice meal for the lion,

Will stops regularly to point out different cacti and yuccas and surprisingly moss growing on the side of some of the formations. We stop off at Jumbo Rocks (that is their name) and Split Rocks for some photo opportunities. Will took a photo of all of us in front of one of the biggest and oldest Joshua Trees in the park.

We now start descending down into the valley and you can feel the temperature drop where. There are two large extinct volcanic cinder cones off in the distance. One of the rock formations has a small hollowed-out hole that was used to crush seeds etc much like a mortar and pestle

One of the canyons we drive past is called the Hall of Horrors. Worth a read here to get an idea of the area How to Hike the Hall of Horrors | Joshua Tree National Park – Earth Trekkers

We made a stop at cap rock where Will told us this is the place where Gram Parsons’s body was bought to be burnt’. There is no signage of this failed cremation (for obvious reasons). Will is also a Gram Parsons fan and rattled off his favorite songs. As we get back onto a sealed road the traffic is back. There are a lot of rock climbers doing their thing. We head towards the park exit having done a full loop. Our tour was supposed to be three hours but as Will said at the start, he loves doing the tours, and if he gets the feeling his tour party is having a good time he will stay out longer. We were out in the park for at least five plus hours. Wow, how good is that?

We exited near the old part of Joshua Tree Town where Will explained that when he was a parole officer back in the 90’s this was the meth capital of California, his job was an early version of Breaking Bad. Not sure how the subject came about but Will has told us that if a skunk spays your dog and you can’t get rid of the smell then bathe the dog in Tomato Juice.

We were back home just after 7. Another long day but what a ripper.

Day 33 – May 5^th

Without music, life would be a mistake. Friedrich Nietsche

I have been coughing and spluttering all night. I think the ghost from the other night has given me a cold. Great, a cold for the flight back home. That’s gunna be fun.

I got out to the festival around noon. I started the festival with a Yaka Mein and I am finishing off with a Yaka Mein for the last day as well

I mentioned in an earlier post that the 50^th anniversary t-shirt I fancied had sold-out. I checked back at one of the merchandise stalls on the off-chance that they may have restocked. They have, and I have another t-shirt to add to the small collection I have back home. There is a large marquee at the festival that sells live recording of many of the artists performances over the years (including this year). I knew that Los Lobos had been recorded the other day and so I picked myself up a copy of their set.

I went over to Gentilly to watch *Jon Cleary and his Absolute Monster Gentleman. Jon and band always put on a first class show The weather is bearable, a little overcast with a cooling breeze every now and then. Looks like today is going to be busy (punter wise) the track around the Gentilly stage is already packed with seats. To be honest I feel pretty crook, as the cold takes hold, I am determined to hang in as long as I can for this last day of music in New Orleans, before I head home on Wednesday.

*’Since moving over from the UK in the 80’s, Cleary has earned a place in the front-line of New Orleans blues singers and keyboardists. He won a Grammy Award for his CD GoGo Juice. At the 2018 Best of the Beat awards, Jon Cleary was named Songwriter of the year and Best Pianist.’ – Offbeat Jazz Bible

Next on the bill, and again on Gentilly, is *Little Feat. They started about 10 minutes late, which is frustrating as they can’t make up time at the end. It would not be fair on other artists.. The played a number of hits including, ‘Oh Atlanta’, ‘Fat Man In The Bathtub’, ‘Dixie Chicken’ (with guest Popa John Gros), and ‘Feats Don’t Fail Me Now’. I enjoyed the set but I thought they lacked some punch and jammed too long on their songs. Still I am glad I saw them again. It had been a while. The early 70’s at Festival Hall from (hazy) memory.

*Formed by the late Lowell George just after Frank Zappa sacked him for drug use, Little Feat had some of the most fluid jams and quirkiest songwriting in the 70’s. All four living members of the classic line-up are still aboard (they’ve lost Lowell George and drummer Richie Hayward), having shed a couple of later-day singers they’re are largely back to the vintage sound and material.’ – Offbeat Jazz Bible

I may get castigated, but I headed home at 5pm after Little Feat. I wanted to stay at Gentilly for John Fogarty and then some of Buddy Guy at the Blues Tent, to round out the 2019 Jazz Fest. I just feel to sick to stay. Another Jazz Fest under the belt. It has been good even with all the disappointments of the changes to the original line-up announcement. Maybe I will be back next year, I know Wendy is keen, my health is giving me the shits. I am just so God damn tired all the time.

Day Thirty-Two – May 4^th

For a list of all the ways technology has failed to improve the quality of life, please press three. Alice Khan

There has been a heavy Thunderstorm overnight. It is still raining when I get up. At eleven o’clock the Jazz Fest people have sent out word that today’s opening will be delayed until 12:30. More depressing news, there is another major Thunderstorm due around 4:00 pm. I made an executive decision (Captain’s call) to not got to the Fest today. My decision was to some degree based on the predicted storm but also to the fact that John Prine would not be closing out the days music in the Blues Tent (due to illness.)

William and I decided to hit the MRB bar around 3pm. The back patio area is packed, however, we managed to snag a couple of seats next to some out of town, young party goers. Three people from Chicago and two from Detroit. They seemed to take a liking to us and insisted on buying drinks for us. Beer for me and William’s favourite tipple, Vodka and diet coke. As the day wore on we were each given a shoe of Jager. On one occasion I went into the bar and a local bar-fly (Byron) thought I was Robert Plant, I guess due to me accent (he thought I was English) and they way I looked? Now, don’t laugh, but this is not the first time I have been asked the same question. If only they heard me sing!

William and I went into the bar to watch the live running of the 145^th Kentucky Derby. The race was run in foul weather, pouring rain and a very muddy track. They race on sand for the Derby. The race was won by the favourite, (Maximum Security), but then Maximim Security was controversially disqualified due to interference on the home turn. I read the next day that the President of the United States had nothing better to do whilst running the richest and most powerful country in the world, to Tweet that the Stewards were wrong and the it was Fake News due to Political Correctness gone mad. Is this man fair dinkum? What a moron he is.

William and I wandered back home around 7 pm, both a little worse for wear. And guess what? The predicted second storm did not occur.

Day Thirty-Two – May 4^th

There has been a heavy Thunderstorm overnight. It is still raining when I get up. At eleven o’clock the Jazz Fest people have sent out word that today’s opening will be delayed until 12:30. More depressing news, there is another major Thunderstorm due around 4:00 pm. I made an executive decision (Captain’s call) to not got to the Fest today. My decision was to some degree based on the predicted storm but also to the fact that John Prine would not be closing out the days music in the Blues Tent (due to illness.)

William and I decided to hit the MRB bar around 3pm. The back patio area is packed, however, we managed to snag a couple of seats next to some out of town, young party goers. Three people from Chicago and two from Detroit. They seemed to take a liking to us and insisted on buying drinks for us. Beer for me and William’s favourite tipple, Vodka and diet coke. As the day wore on we were each given a shoe of Jager. On one occasion I went into the bar and a local bar-fly (Byron) thought I was Robert Plant, I guess due to me accent (he thought I was English) and they way I looked? Now, don’t laugh, but this is not the first time I have been asked the same question. If only they heard me sing!

William and I went into the bar to watch the live running of the 145^th Kentucky Derby. The race was run in foul weather, pouring rain and a very muddy track. They race on sand for the Derby. The race was won by the favourite, (Maximum Security), but then Maximim Security was controversially disqualified due to interference on the home turn. I read the next day that the President of the United States had nothing better to do whilst running the richest and most powerful country in the world, to Tweet that the Stewards were wrong and the it was Fake News due to Political Correctness gone mad. Is this man fair dinkum? What a moron he is.

William and I wandered back home around 7 pm, both a little worse for wear. And guess what? The predicted second storm did not occur.

May 3^rd – Day Thirty-One

Begin at once to live, and count each separate day as a separate life. Seneca

I had to renew my phone plan to cover my few remaining days. Brian Wise has told me that he pays a $3 monthly fee so as to keep his U.S. cell number. Might explore that option.

Overcast and humid, the weather for tomorrow (Saturday) is not looking good.

Breakfast this morning at Jazz Fest was Vietnamese Egg Rolls and a BBQ Shrimp Skewer.

Stopped in at the Blues Tent for the last twenty minutes of *John Mooney & Bluesiana. Wicked slide-guitar.

Real enough to record for Ruf and Blind Pig and to sit in with Snooks Eglin and Fess himself, Mooney more or less invented welding Delta Blues to New Orleans funk. – Offbeat Jazz Fest Bible

Then over to the Lagniappe Stage for some of Susan Cowsill of the famous Cowsill Family group from the sixties.

The humidity is bad today. Sitting in the Blues tent becomes sauna like after ten minutes or so.

At 3pm I sat on the track at Gentilly and listened in to a full set of the * North Mississippi Allstars with special guest Anders Osborne. These younger guys sure know how to channel the old-time Hill Country blues. Love it.

*Southern rock and blues band from Mississippi, starring brothers Luther Dickinson (guitar) and Cody Dickinson (drums.) – Offbeat Jazz Bible

By four o’clock I was back in the Blues Tent for *Sonny Landreth. What a slide guitarist this man is. Totally unique. To think that a few years back we nearly had him play at WOW, sadly, the tour was canceled due to Sonny being ill at the time.

*’A thoughtful songwriter and scorching slide guitarist. Landreth can claim the likes of Clapton, Buffett, Hiatt and John Mayall as collaborators and fans’. – Offbeat Jazz fest Bible*’

My last gig for the day (again in the Blues Tent), was the legendary *Los Lobos. For me one of the highlight gigs of Jazz Fest. I enjoyed every minute of it. I sat next to WOW member Geoff and his lovely wife.

*They’re best known for two 80’s Richie Valens covers in ‘La Bamba’ and Come On, Let’s Go,’ but this five-piece band has been holding down the tradition of Mexican-American music since they changed all the rules of Latin rock with ‘Will the Wolf Survive.’ Too ahead of their time, they stuck around through sheer tenacity (like the wolf) and now serve as gatekeepers of border music from the Pacific to Port Arthur.’ – Offbeat Jazz Fest Bible

Day 30 – May 2^nd.

There’ll be two dates on your tombstone. And all your friends will read ‘em. But all that’s gonna matter is that little dash between ‘em. Kevin Welch

First day of the 50^th Jazz Fest. I am up late, last night went longer than planned. Today (2^nd weekend of the Fest), was the Rolling Stones day. It will be interesting to see the size of the crowd. A lot of people I have spoken to have received their ticket refunds and did not bother with getting a replacement ticket.

I didn’t get out to the Fairgrounds until after one. Walked straight in without the usual lines of punters waiting for the security check. Food was an urgent requirement. I had a serve of Lamb Tangine and Rice followed by a Crawfish Monica washed down with, an oh so sweet Strawberry Lemonade. I must have eaten 20 Lbs of Crawfish this trip.

It is an overcast day, humid, and then hot, when the sun breaks through periodically.

I went over to the Gentilly Stage for Marc Broussard. Marc played at FQF and I was not overly impressed on that occasion. This time around however I like what I heard.

I stayed at Gentilly for *Rita Coolidge. She looked fantastic, all in white. I was rapt to hear her sing, ‘Superstar’, from the epic release ‘Mad Dogs and Englishmen.’

*‘You know the honeyed voice if you’ve heard the 70’s soft rock rendition of ‘Your Love Keeps Lifting Me Higher’ or the epic power ballad ‘We’re All Alone,’ but before that Rita was one of rock’s most in-demand backup vocalists (Leon Russell) wrote ‘Delta Lady about her). – Offbeat Jazz Fest Bible

I have had my eye on a black and gold 50^th Anniversary t-shirt. Looks like everyone at the festival had the same mindset as they have sold out already.

Over to the Blues Tent for a favourite of ours, *Eric Lindell. Great as always. I hung around to buy his latest CD release from him. I was rather pleasantly surprised that he remembered my name from previous trips.

*Once a Californian skate- punk, Lindell had more success as a blue-eyed soul and blues-man after moving to New Orleans. His tight backing band explore the edges of Louisiana’s roots rock.’ – Offbeat Jazz Bible

It has been amazing the number of people who say something to me when I am wearing my Jerry Jeff Walker t-shirt. It is like we are part of a mystical family of Jerry Jeff fans. Another guy has just told me his Jerry Jeff story. ‘I saw Jerry Jeff in the early 70’s, he came on stage four hours late!’ He had just finished his second song, when he started to stumble backwards, doing a back-stroke maneuver.’ ‘He crashed through the drums and promptly fell asleep.’ ‘The drummer said, thanks for coming out to the show, it’s goodnight from Jerry Jeff.’ The storyteller said all this with a big smile on his face.

Pat must have seen me trying to get some photos and she came up to say hello. She is going to hang in for Mavis Staples and then go over to see her teenage heart-throb, Tom Jones.

My must see today is *Mavis Staples. She did not disappoint. For an eighty year old lady, she still has am amazing voice and energy. She at one stage said, ‘I am going to bring out my little brother.’ Trombone Shorty came out and lifted her performance even higher. You could see the great respect he had for Mavis. The Staple Singers with Pops at the helm were legendary in the sixties Civil Right’s movement. I was going to go and see some of Tom Jones myself, but how could I possible leave such a moving and riveting performance. I later read that Ton Jones had showed up at a Jon Cleary gig at Chickie Way Wah and sang a few songs. That would have been awesome. By all reports his Jazz Fest performance was top notch. And no, he did not sing, ‘What’s New Pussy Cat!’

*She’ll take you there. The Grand Dame of Gospel’s first family, who stoked her street cred when the 70’s on hits like ‘Respect Yourself’ and ‘I’ll Take You There, is getting even more respect today with her solo career; no one else at the Festival except from Al Green combines the sexy throaty passion of R’n’B with the sweet release of Gospel.’ – Offbeat Jazz Fest Bible

I must say that the homecoming bus trips have been a breeze compared to previous years. No long waits at all.

I had a knock on the door around 8pm and was invited in for dinner. Rick is an exceptional cook. He brought all his cooking stuff down from Kansas City. Had a Mexican soup with crushed tortillas, baby-back ribs and some mustard glazed corned-beef. Very tasty.

Day 29 – May 1^st.

‘It is no easy matter to go to Heaven by way of New Orleans ‘ – Rev. J Chandler Gregg

Wednesday in the Crescent City and one week of my trip to go. Where have those days gone?

News has just come through that John Prine has had to cancel his Saturday appearance at Jazz Fest. That’s a bummer as I had penciled him in as a must see. To date these are the cancellations from the original line-up. The Stones, Jerry Lee Lewis, Bob Seeger, Jimmy Cliff and then Fleetwood Mac who were to replace the Stones. ‘What a drag it is getting old.’

I went out early, and can proudly say, I have broken the back of my gift shopping.

Today is Crawfish Festival day at Central BBQ. Doors open at 3. I booked a United Cab and arrivds at 3:30. The outdoor area is pretty wet with a number of puddles around. Must have been a brief downpour that missed my place. Bugger, I forgot my seat.

The first act for the day is Papa Mali with Alvin Youngblood Hart. Enjoyable set of music. There are a number of Aussies in the house. Brian Wise and wife Karen with some of his tour group. Also Tony Wood, Baz Williams and Bryce.

I got my serve of Crawfish and fixins’ which is part of the entry cost. Must say I am getting pretty good at suckin’ the head and pinchin’ the tail. Certainly not as quick as the locals, but getting there. Another first, I have managed to keep my t-shirt free of Mud Bug guts.

Part of today’s festivities is a Crawfish cooking contest. Ten entries in all including the MRB bar. This is serious business. Woodie from MRB recognized me from Stew’s party.

Next on the bill (and the reason I choose this day of the three day festival), Anders Osborne and David Torkanowsky. Great music, more subdued that when Anders is in full band mode. I took a few photos of the Aussies around the festival.

Tony Wood and I had a couple of coldies and he told me that tomorrow night, Fiona Boyes will be playing with Johnny Sansone at the Monkey Bar. I know I will be too stuffed to go to that gig after the first day of Jazz Fest (tomorrow).

Day Twenty Eight – April 30^th

I have recently been examining all the known superstitions of the world, and do not find in our particular superstition (Christianity) one redeeming feature. They are all alike founded on fables and mythology. Thomas Jefferson

Not a lot to report in on today. Except of course my (what is now) traditional luncheon with William. For the last 5 years we have been going to the upmarket Mr B’s on Royal Street. We go there exclusively for the best BBQ Shrimp in town. You can check out Mr B’s here http://www.mrbsbistro.com/

The restaurant is one of the famous Brennan family businesses. Y’all can find the recipe for the shrimp at the above site. Just turn a blind eye to the amount of butter in the peppery sauce if you are on a diet. This is a dish that is eaten with your hands, to save your clothes from getting covered in the sauce you get to wear a paper bib.

Now I never like to create controversy and I am very mindful of being political correct (most of the time). However I have an observation from Jazz Fest that I’d like to share. Please take my observation with the humor that is intended.

I have noticed a number of (say) senior ladies dressed smartly, and on closer inspection, have had some work done to their faces. You know the ladies, no wrinkles, face skin unusually smooth. Botox, and this months new and expensive face cream made from Yak’s milk or something similar have warded off the ravages of time. They invariably wear shortish dresses and have a deep tan. The problem is, that when you glance down at their legs their skin in like an eighty year old rhinoceroses’ hide. I think there is a market for a new type of cream (would have to come in a very large container.) The cream would be used to get the said crinkly skin of the legs to match the odd looking smooth skin of those ladies that need to look younger. Just saying!