treme54's Blog

April 21 – Day 18

Again sleep has eluded me. 

Back to Belle’s at 11 for a late breakfast. Not feeling overly hungry so went for an omelet. ‘the Pig Cheesy,’ chislesi ham, cheddar, provolone cheese and American cheese plus of course hash browns. Excellent omelet although I think I have just eaten a pound of cheese.

When I was In New Orleans last year there was a high profile murder. Ex Saints football star Will Smith was shot dead by Cardell Hayes after a minor traffic accident in the Lower Garden District. Hayes also shot Smith’s wife twice in the legs. It was all over the news for the whole month I was here. Well this time the news is all about the trial and the subsequent sentencing of Hayes to 25 years jail. The prosecution wanted a life sentence. Another two families lives ruined by senseless gun violence.

I meet up with Bob and Pat at Iggy’s around 9 for a couple of beers. Iggy’s does not seem to have the same atmosphere that it has had in past years. We then went on over to Big Dave’s new cafe and bar on St. Claude. A very short drive from Iggy’s. Dave was real glad to see me but was disappointed that Wendy was not with me. We laughed a lot and shared a few stories (mostly true ones). The cafe looks great, lots of local art including an authentic display of Mardi Gras Indian beading. Lots of tables and chairs for dining and a real neat little courtyard. No Abita on tap so Bob and I gave the Blue Moons a shot. By the end of the night I felt like I was on the dark side of the moon! Big Dave told us about a Sunday Drag Brunch he is starting off this Sunday from 11 til 3. Sounds like a lot of fun and we have decided to give it a try. That is Pat and I as Bob is a little wary. 

April 20th – Day 17

Another bad sleeping night. I just don’t seem to be able to sleep until after 3 A.M. I have been leaving the radio on tuned into WWOZ. You hear some good music late at night.

I tried a new restaurant for my first meal of the day. Pier 424 Seafood Market on Bourbon looked ok menu wise. It is only 11:30 but I have not eaten so in for a penny, in for a pound. I ordered half a dozen charbroiled oysters and a Creole pasta. The oysters were first class. The pasta one of the best meals I  have ever eaten pasta wise. Seasoned chicken, andouille sausage, shrimp, bell peppers, red onion, mushrooms all roasted then simmered in Creole sauce over linguini pasta. So, so good. I am glad I took a chance on Pier 424. I had intended to try and do the Jazz Brunch at the famous Court of Two Sisters but it was booked out. I will make an online booking for next week.

Because I don’t sleep well at night I have found that as soon as I sit down in the afternoon I fall asleep. I thought of Arthur when flicking through the T.V. channels. There is a Western Chanel that only shows old 50’ and 60’s shows. I have been watching the Lone Ranger, Roy Rogers and Laramie. They seem real corny but still enjoyable. Lots of fighting, shooting and of course ending with a moral to the story. Life was simpler way back then.

Music is planned for tonight. Heading over to the Three Muses on Frenchman for Luke Winslow King. I have a couple of his c.d.’s and have seen him perform before. Got a bar stool and settled myself in with a beer. Alas Luke is not playing tonight due to a family emergency. Instead there  is a three piece jazz band. They are good (as are most musicians in New Orleans) so I hung in for a set and made sure I put a couple of dollars in the tip bucket. Then headed to the Spotted Cat, it is busy tonight and as I could not get a bar stool I didn’t hang around.

Instead I fished up at the Apple Barrel which is next to the Spotted Cat. Where else in the world can you walk out one music venue into another all within a few feet. The Apple Barrel is a small dive but tonight the band is fantastic. Old timey music played by young’uns. I think I have seen a few of them busking on Royal. Upright bass, clarinet, drums, banjo and resonator guitar with kazoo. Great playing, harmonies and songs. I stood at the bar next to an old local that I had seen at the wedding reception last week. The guy that looks like Willie Nelson. His name is Charlie and the Apple Barrel is his local. Also got introduced to another guy, John. He has been coming to New Orleans for over 30 years and he was up for a talk. He lives 6 months of the year in Southern Mexico. He had lots of stories about New Orleans which were very interesting.

It is already 11 o’clock and feeling hungry I dropped into the Verti Marte for a take-out on my way home. Pork chops, mashed potato smothered in gravy and green beans. No wonder I can’t sleep at night!

April 19th – Day 16

Back to Belle’s Diner for breakfast today. Pancakes with berries and pecans. The waiter looked a little surprised when I turned down the offer of a side of bacon. Stew is picking me up around 4:30 to take me to a College Baseball Game. Glad to read in the Picayune that an ‘expert’ has predicted that this year’s hurricane season will be less active.

Stew advised to get a bite to eat before he picked me up as the food available at the game would be limited. So around 2:30 I went over to Fiorella’s for Fried Chicken and Potato Salad.

Stew picked me up right on time and we were at the Baseball Park an hour before the first pitch. The stadium is very impressive. Sure puts our State Baseball stadium to shame. We had seats just to the side of home plate, three rows from the front. Great game against the more fancied University of Southern Mississippi. Tulane won the game 10  – 8. Very high standard of ball. Of course when at a ball game ya gotta have a hot dog and a beer.

http://www.nola.com/tulane/index.ssf/2017/04/tulane_jumps_ahead_and_then_ha.html#incart_river_index_topics

Real enjoyable night out thanks to Stew

April 18th. – Day 15

Up early – Laundry Day. The owner, Dinah, greets me and tells me that she is glad to see that I am keeping up with my laundry. She is a real character just like so many people who work in da Quarter.

I decided while making plans for this trip that I would research a few restaurants that have been written up in various travel sites. Hence my visit to Dookey Chase last week.

Today I have embarked on a very long walk to Cochon (Pig)which is at 930 Tchoupitoulas and is a Cajun Southern Cooking restaurant. This restaurant is one of the Donald Link Group. Link is a famous chef in these here parts and I have one of his cook books at home. It is a bit of a treat as the food is not cheap and the setting is a little more formal. I was given the choice of sitting at a table or taking a seat along a bar that runs along the extent of the open kitchen. I took up the offer to watch the chefs in action.

I ordered a bottle of Mountain Valley Spring Water, bottled at the source – Ouachita Mountains. Now it is not often that I would rave about the quality of drinking water but boy was this water good. For lunch I ordered Louisiana Cochon with cabbage, cracklin’ and pickled pear washed down with Mexican Coke. The Mexican Coke (the drinking kind tasted a little different). Maybe i will start burping in Spanish! I started writing in my journal. Next thing I know is that a guy came over to me and said this is compliments of the Chef, a small pulled pork pattie with a tiny fried quail egg sitting on top. Maybe they think I am a foreign food reviewer! The kitchen staff are friendly and engage in conversation. They pick my accent quickly and I am told they had a trainee Australian in the kitchen a few months back. Great food.

There is a bit of rain about. I was going to get a Uber back home but decided to walk off the pig. I got half way through da Quarter and had to seek shelter at the corner of Royal and St. Ann as the rain is now real heavy. It took about 45 minutes for the storm to clear.

After an afternoon nap it was time for some music on Frenchman. First stop was the Spotted Cat for the last set of New Orleans Bluesman Andy Forester. I found myself sitting at the bar next to a couple of women from Toronto. They were up for a chat about our respective countries. Then I heard a familiar sounding accent ordering a beer. I asked the guy where he was from. He said, ‘Houston.’ Sure sounded more Australian to me. He was an ex-pat Aussie who has lived in Houston for the last five years. He is a Chemical Engineer. He is holidaying with his sister who has just flown in. They both live In Wheelers Hill!

Like all bars in New Orleans they are very strict on checking people’s I.D. to ensure they are of the drinking age of 21. One of the bar people tells me she lived in a Kibbutz in Israel for a while with as she described. ‘three crazy Australians.’ She did learn one think from them. As I went to take a drink she said, ‘Cheers Big Ears.’ Next performer up was Meschiya Lake and the Little Big Horns, they get the place rockin’ and the bar is now crowded.

I headed over to a newer bar 30/90 and caught a young band, the Bayou Saints. More Rock than Jazz but I am mighty impressed. It cost me a $1 to take a leak as the Restroom has an attendant.

April 17th. – Day 14

First meal of the day ay N’awlins Café and Spice Emporium down at the market. Shrimp Creole and a Barg’s Root Beer. Very tasty and spicy.

People seem a little sluggish after the 3 days of Easter celebrations, as does your writer. For a religious celebration, New Orleans sure likes to party. Also it is the end of Spring Break and many people left town yesterday.

12:40 and the blog is up to date. A storm is brewing and I can hear some distant thunder. 13:10 and the rain is here, heavy and persistent, although the forecast tells me it should clear in an hour or so.

2:30 and off for a walk, need a coffee and something sweet. The humidity is high after the thunderstorm and it does not take long to feel a little sticky. Had my much needed coffee and an Almond Croissant at Cafe Beignet on Royal. Nice to sit and relax. I have done nil in the way of touristy things. I am just content to absorb the comings and goings of the city. Walked the length of Canal and had a look in a couple of jean shops as well as window shopping a very cool men’s clothing and shoe store. There are no conservative business suits here. Very brightly coloured suits and shirts.

Back to the apartment to watch a couple of more movies. Then out to the Verty Mart for a take-out, meatloaf, mashed potato and green beans. 

April 16th. – Day 13

Easter Sunday in da Quarter. Up early and down to Envie’s for breakfast. I have been listening in to a conversation of two older locals and a couple of policemen enjoying a morning coffee. They got around to talking about the Grateful Dead and more particularly Jerry Garcia. One of the guys was saying that he never really got into ‘the Dead’ and that he thought Garcia was a sloppy and lazy guitarist. He then reminisced about seeing Garcia play a  few times with the legendary New Orleans Piano Professor James Booker. At one stage Booker screamed at Garcia to ‘just make the fuckin changes, man.’ Now for those of you who know of the somewhat erratic nature of Mr. Booker you will realize that maybe Garcia was not all he is feted to be?

When I finally left Envie’s there was a line snaking out the door for service. It is a popular hangout.

Went and got some Strawberry Abita in readiness for today’s Gay Easter Parade which will pass our door later this afternoon. I have noticed that whenever you pay with a $20 bill it is checked thoroughly and then marked with a felt-tip pen. My curiosity aroused I asked the shop keeper why this was so although I am sure it is to check for counterfeit notes. She confirmed my suspicions and further added that on holiday weekends a lot of bleached notes are presented by out of towners. The paper feels right but the denomination has been altered. By checking the note up to the light and then putting it under an ultra violet light they confirm that it is legitimate.

I have also noticed that big Al Carson has not been advertised as playing at his normal gig at the Funky Pirate. He also did not perform at the FQF or is scheduled to play Jazz Fest. A quick Google search revealed that he has been hospitalized last April and was in intensive care suffering pneumonia. No further updates are available on the net. Maybe his ongoing weight issues have forced him into retirement. I hope he is o.k.

Went down to St. Philip around 1:30 to get a position for the Chris Owen Easter Parade. There are many people out and about wearing bunny ears (men and women) as well as more ornate Easter Bonnets. The locals sure make an effort to dress up for Easter Sunday. I took the camera with me for the first time this trip as there will be many great photo opportunities. The locals love Chris Owen and she looks pretty in her Easter finery. There are many shouts of, ‘we love you Chris.’ She does not seem to age from year to year, just looks ancient.

It got hot standing in the sun so I was glad to walk the short distance back home and sit out on the balcony with a cold Abita. The six pack of Abita had cost $12.09 from the Quarter Master. Good value seeing that a single Abita at most bars is $5 to $6.

Most people that pass me by say ‘Happy Easter’ and a few have said to me ‘go cubbies.’ I forgot that I had on my Chicago Cubs t-shirt. For those of you that don’t know the ‘cubbies’ won last year’s baseball World Series. What a year for me, the doggies winning the Grand Final and the cubs winning the World Series after an even longer wait than the dogs. Any by the way red, white and blue are the colors of both teams.

A group of Elvis impersonators went past on small scooters. I nearly got knocked out when one strong-arm Elvis threw me a dum dums (sorta like a small chuppa chup)

There is a travel guide across the road from me explaining some of the local architecture as well as adding in some snippets about Hurricane Katrina. Where my apartment is built is approx. 5 to 6 feet above sea level as is much of the Quarter. Hence the reason it did not flood. However compare that to some areas of Metairie which is 44 feet below sea level and you can see the problem.

Although having said that Mickey told me that a short time back it rained so hard and long that the Quarter did experience some flooding.

Stew and Carol came over around 4 o’clock. I invited them over to watch the Gay Easter Parade. There are so many interesting people to photograph and no one seems to object when I ask to take their picture. The only hassle I have with bringing over my tablet and not my laptop is that I can’t download any of those photos. You will just have to wait until I get back.

Spoiler Alert – Mickey has just told me thatt the current filming of New Orleans NCIS has Pride’s bar being blown up!

All in all another great Easter Sunday in New Orleans.

April 15th – Day 12

As could be expected after (for me) such a late night, it was an effort to get out of bed. All in all arising at 11 was a pretty brave thing on my behalf. Just feeling mighty tired but not hungover.

Again an overcast day with a nice breeze.

Time to eat. I tried out a new restaurant across from the market. St. Celia is a little upmarket for the area. Got myself a seat and ordered the Fried Chicken that comes with a mountain of mashed potato smothered in gravy and a big serve of cabbage. Very nice even if the service was very slow. If Kate and Wendy were here they would have struggled to eat this whole plate of food even if they were sharing.

Today is just going to be a rest day. 

The only other thing I did was go out at 6 to have an Italian Sausage Pizza at the Louisiana Pizza Kitchen. The sky is looking threatening and wouldn’t you know it as soon as I was ready to walk back home the heavens opened up. Very heavy downpour for 30 or so minutes. I took shelter and waited out the rain. Been lucky as this is the first rain in the 12 days I have been here.

April 14th. – Day 11

Good Friday in the Quarter. I am out and about at 9:30. A little overcast and still quiet around town.

Down to Belle’s Diner on Decatur just across from the French Market. One thing about being a regular visitor is that you build up a bit of knowledge about good eating establishments. Belle’s is a 50’s styled Diner with the obligatory rock ‘n’ roll music greeting customers. Ordered the Belle’s breakfast of sunny-side up eggs, bacon, hash browns and coffee all for $10. Smothered of course with Crystal hot sauce.

Went back to the apartment and chilled out listening to WWOZ.

Around 12:30 I headed down to the market for a Pecan Pie. I have been trying to bake these little sweet morals at home. Had some success with the filling turning out O.K. but just need to work on the pastry. When Cara comes back home I will get her to help me out. She is our families baking wizard.

About time that I took a nice long walk along the Mississippi down to the Riverwalk Mall. Perfect day for it with a cooling breeze coming off the river. Did some window shopping, taking note of a few things I might buy toward the end of my trip. Depending of course on how my finances are holding up.

Time to head back for a rest and then shower before heading out again to meet up with our good friends Pat & Bob ‘Gentilly’ Jnr. at a favorite watering hole on St. Phillips, the legendary Johnny White’s bar. We are not meeting up until 9ish. Now I must say that if I was back home I would normally be in bed by this time. New Orleans sure brings out the bad boy in me!

I headed out around 7:30 to make sure I had a feed before consuming a copious amount of the seasonal Abita Strawberry Ale. I found a Vietnamese restaurant and ordered a Beef Pho and an appetizer of fried dumplings filled with crab meat and cream cheese. The Beef Pho was a little disappointing, nowhere as tasty as those from Barkly St. Footscray however the dumplings were very tasty.

I am seated a the bar at 9 and there is a change of shift, ‘Evil’ Bob is now our barman through to 3 A.M. In fact I said hello to Evil Bon yesterday as he was part of the wedding reception at Mr. B’s Bar.

Pat and Bob came in shortly after and we greeted like the old friend’s that we have become. They are both truly the most friendly and accommodating people you would wish to meet. I know that Wendy is sorely sorry that she is not with me this trip. Not so much for the destination but for the people we know call friends. We had a great time chatting and discussing Pat’s planned ‘Down Under’ trip. I am trying valiantly to persuade Bob to also come away with Pat. It would be great to be able to show them both our Melbourne music scene and places such as the Great Ocean Road and of course the crazy people we knock about with.

A Brass Band went past Johnny White’s (apparently). Pat said to me, ‘ You are now a local, a brass band just went by and you just kept on talking.’ Normally I would have went over to the door to have a look! Pat showed me a photo of ‘Evil’ Bob in his Mardi Gras Costume. He was dressed as a vagina, yes that is what I said, a vagina. Looked incredible, a 6 foot five inch vagina! He could hire himself out to schools for sex education classes.

The night finished up around 2 A.M. with plans to do it all again next Friday. Can’t wait.

April 13th – Day 10

Well here I am in New Orleans on our wedding anniversary! Don’t worry I have already found a gift for Wendy. She is not getting want she dreams of though, that is me kidnapping Tab Benoit and bringing him back as her toy boy.

I walked over to Frenchman to visit the Louisiana Music Factory, the best record shop in the South. It is 10:30 and a sign on the door says closed – open at 11. I am a little hungry so I wandered across the street to Café Rose Nichaud. I know the food is good here. Local business people use the Café for their morning meetings. A little interesting history about Rose Nichaud – In the early 1800’s Rose became the first known coffee vendor in New Orleans. Rose, a slave, saw the opportunity to provide a service to French Market vendors, workers and shoppers by providing them with fresh hot coffee. Rose created a portable cart which she pushed around the market on Sundays, selling “café noir ou café au lait” Her entrepreneurial efforts were a quick success. One customer is quoted to have said, “Her coffee is like the benediction that follows after a prayer.”

 I had a healthy (for New Orleans) dish – the Rose Benedict – the signature dish of the Café – organic yellow corn rosemary cheese grits topped with open faced biscuit with garlic mayo, portabella mushrooms, caramelized (when in the U.S. spell like the U.S) onion, avocado, tomatoes, sunny side up eggs, asiago cheese and argola. I could have added alligator sausage but I decided to go vego for at least one meal. Pretty amazing breakfast and one I will have again. 

Tonight, William has invited my neighbor and myself to Mr. B Bar ‘n’ Restaurant for a crawfish boil. William has taken me to this bar before and it is on St Phillips and does not attract tourists. Indeed we gate crashed a wedding reception. An incredibly eclectic gathering of people that only New Orleans could muster. No suits and ties here. Just an amazing sight of characters straight out of ‘A Confederacy of Dunces’ the John Toole award winning novel that must be read by all.

I made a real mess of my first crawfish. I attacked it from the wrong end and finished up with crawfish brains all over my face, glasses and t-shirt much to the mirth of William. After three of so of the tasty little morsels I had the eatin’ down pat.

I was back at the apartment by 7:30 and flicked through the T.V. channels. Came across a crazy movie called Coffee and Cigarettes. I really enjoyed the show. Check it out at https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coffee_and_Cigarettes if you dig left on center films then you might like it.

April 12th- Day 12

Laundry Day at Suds Dem Duds, just a few doors down from my apartment.

I have decided today to have lunch at the famous Dooky Chase restaurant in the Treme. I know the address – 2301 Orleans Avenue but am unsure how long the walk will take. I checked up Google Maps and it will be a 27 minute walk. I have a suggestion for Google Maps. I want them to allow you to input your age and the quality of your legs so as to ascertain a more accurate walking time!

 It is worth checking out the Dooky Chase link to understand why this restaurant is an institution in New Orleans. It is consistently voted as having the best fried chicken in town and many famous people have dined here. http://www.dookychaserestaurant.com

Took me about 35 minutes, not bad. The lunch menu  is a la carte and includes a delicious chicken soup and a choice of fried chicken, dirty rice, cheesy mac, hot sausage, greens and candied yam followed by a peach cobbler all for under $20 bucks. Nice looking restaurant without being pretentious. More locals than tourists. Can’t wait to bring Kate here. She will love the chicken and cheesy mac. You can go back for seconds. Real friendly staff help for a great New Orleans experience. The place is decked out with Easter decorations. A lot of homes in the Quarter are also decorated. New Orleans is very much still a catholic city without being pushy. Mrs. Chase the matriarch of the family walks around each table to greet the diners. She is somewhat of a celebrity as many diners want to have their photo taken with her. She stopped and thanked me for dining with her. For a lady in her mid 90’s she is still switched on and takes a delight at being in her restaurant daily even though her cooking days are over.

Tonight I head down to Lafayette Square for the free music in the park series. Every Wednesday night during Spring you get to sample two of New Orleans finest bands. Tonight it is John ‘Popa’ Gross followed by John Cleary and the Absolute Monster Gentleman. I have been coming to these events each year I am in New Orleans. I even recognize a few familiar faces. Again, more locals than tourists. The gig runs from 5 PM to 8PM and the CBD workers just take off their ties and get a little music after a days work.

Normally when I am over here there is always in the back of my mind that as the days tick over I have to shortly go back to a job that I was not enjoying. I real damper. I don’t have to worry about that crap any more. Even though I lost my job in very unsavory circumstances (near on a year ago) I am glad that I am no longing in the sales driven banking industry. Not having to report to wankers in corporate suits/dress is a blessing